|
PRAGUE --
This is one of the world's most fascinating cities, filled with history
that stretches from the Middle Ages through the "Velvet Revolution."
You can eat heartily here, but take care with your choices, otherwise
it may seem like you're wading through a perpetual sea of brown gravy
towards a never-ending pork cutlet. These tips should help your culinary
activities be as balanced as your tourism.
|
FRIDAY NIGHT-- Meal One
U Modre Kachnicky
-- Nebovidska 6; 257-320-308: Start your journey by crossing the
famous Charles Bridge and turning left into the winding streets
of Malá Strana ("the Lesser Town") where you'll
find this famous dining landmark. The decor is eclectic kitsch
and every table is nestled into its one intimate corner. But the
food is superb, with traditional Czech cuisine elevated to high
art. All of the various duck dishes are superb, as is the wonderful
roast rabbit with lingonberry sauce. Save room for the palacinky
crepes for dessert and look at the framed photos of Tom Cruise
and Nicole Kidman who dined here when he was shooting Mission
Impossible in Prague. |
|
SATURDAY MORNING -- Meal Two
Café Savoy
-- Vitezna 5; 257-311-562: This glorious coffee house dates from
1893 and has all the art nouveau flourishes you would expect.
It's in perfect condition because its stained glass windows were
plastered over from 1939 through 1989.
Now it's a place to sit and enjoy one of their prodigious
breakfasts, each named after a different country.
The French Breakfast is a French baguette, fried
sweet toast with maple syrup, grilled sausage with french fries,
Prague ham, boiled egg, French blue cheese, butter, homemade jam,
croissant, grapes, fresh orange juice, café au lait. Rest
afterwards is required.
|
|
SATURDAY AFTERNOON -- Meal Three
U medvidku
-- Na Perstyne 7; 224-211-916: You have to experience an authentic
Czech pub at least once and the food here is better than most,
while the ratio of tourists to locals is a lot lower.
Make sure you go to the pub on the right, not the
higher-priced and stuffier restaurant on the left.
Once there, place a coaster in front of you to indicate
you're ready for some beer [if you wish], glance through the menu
and write your choice on the pad the waiter gives you.
Everything is hearty, everything is good, but the
stuffed pork loin with red cabbage and dumplings will keep you
going for a while.
|
|
SATURDAY NIGHT -- Meal Four
Rybi trh
-- Tynsky Dvur 5; 224-895-447: After all this heavy food, you
need something lighter, so seek out this well-concealed seafood
restaurant in a tiny square behind the famous Tyn Church. Dine
on impeccably fresh oysters, eel, sole, turbot – just about
any fish that's in season. They cook it simply, but superbly and
your stomach will thank you. Your wallet will also be thinner:
fresh seafood is very expensive in Prague.
|
|
SUNDAY MORNING -- Meal Five
Kavarna Obecni dum
-- Námestí Republiky 5; 222-002-763: This grand
café is part of the magnificently restored Municipal House,
another triumph of art nouveau: giant windows, copious chandeliers,
mirrored walls and gold trim. You'll feel like you've gone back
100 years and are a member of café society. The food is
limited, but the pastries and coffee are excellent, so have something
sweet, sip a café au lait and dream.
|
|
SUNDAY AFTERNOON -- Meal Six
Kavarna
Slavia -- Smetanovo nabrezi 1012; 224-218-493:
End your visit with some modern history along with excellent goulash
and decadent cream cakes. This art deco café was the meeting
place for Prague's intellectual and political élite for
most of the 20th century. Milan Kundera said it was his favourite
place to eat and Václav Havel pronounced it an important
part of his life as well. The prices are reasonable, the rosewood
and onyx decor is striking and the sense of history is palpable.
EDITOR'S
NOTE: Some of these restaurants may be 'big splurge'
and some may require reservations. It's probably best to ask your
concierge about them or ... more fun, seek them out during the
day and asked to see their menu. It's all part of the fun of being
a traveller.
|
|