Langkawi is known as ‘the jewel of Kedah’

by Carolyn Ray

Stepping on to Langkawi’s Eagle’s Nest Skywalk requires courage. Suspended 2,170 metres above the valley, this is the longest free-standing glass platform in the world. The Skywalk extends over a deep cliff, making a glance down disorienting. Even though the sign claims that the glass can hold 300 people at a time, I still shuffle my way toward the edge, wearing the obligatory blue slippers. Fortunately, there are less than 20 other tourists. It’s only after taking a photograph for a family clustered together on a glass partition that I see another sign: “danger: only three people per square”.

If stepping into the clouds is an adventure you enjoy, Langkawi, an archipelago of islands in Malaysia, may be just the place for you. Opened in 2024, the Eagle’s Nest Skywalk is just one of the newest engineering feats high above the green forests of Langkawi’s Gunung Mat Chinchang mountain. Just a short cable car ride and tram away is the Sky Bridge, which claims to be the world’s longest curved suspension bridge, built in 2005. From here, there are panoramic views of Langkawi island and the blue Andaman Sea below. There’s something quite magical about being suspended in the air, listening to the wind and the shrill sounds of cicadas in the lush forest below.

Langkawi, the ‘birthplace’ of Malaysia

One of Malaysia’s most popular islands, Langkawi is a nature lovers paradise, with white sand beaches, a UNESCO Geopark, limestone rocks jutting out of the ocean and a chill, relaxed vibe. Langkawi is known as the ‘jewel of Kedah’, attracting about three million tourists a year, many of whom come for the duty-free shopping and white sand beaches.

With ancient 500-million-year-old mountains, it’s no surprise that this island calls itself ‘the birthplace of Malaysia’. The name of the island is derived from the old Malay word helang (eagle) and kawi (reddish-brown), translating to “reddish-brown eagle,” which is also the mascot of the island.

Established in 2007, Langkawi UNESCO Global Geopark, located in the far northwestern corner of Peninsular Malaysia in the state of Kedah, holds the distinction of being Southeast Asia’s first UNESCO Global Geopark. It’s enormous, covering 478 square kilometers of land and 920 square kilometers including water bodies, and encompasses the Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park, Kilim Karst Geoforest Park, Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest Park, Tuba Geotourism Trail, and Kubang Badak Biogeotrail.

What to do on Langkawi Island

If you are looking for a relaxed holiday for a week, Langkawi Island is for you. This isn’t a place for food tours or historical visits; it’s more of a bohemian community, with an easy-going vibe where you can connect to nature, the ocean and the vibrant forests. Most of the visitors are from Malaysia, Australia or the UK, making it a hidden gem for North Americans.

1. Watch the sunset on a beach

The main beach in Langkawi is Cenang Beach, where everyone gathers to watch the sunset. It’s a family affair, with kids, parents and grandparents, sitting, eating, running and hopping on the jet-skis that proliferate this beach. There are tourists too, but you won’t stand out because this is just what everyone does before going to the night market in the square behind.

There is one main street near Cenang Beach, lined with shops, restaurants, duty-free stores and boutiques (and even a second-hand bookstore). Beach bars dot the shore, and the one that seems to attract many the tourists is the Yellow Beach Bar, with its disco ball and loungy seating.

My favourite sunset beach, even though it doesn’t face directly west, is Tanjung Rhu Beach (Pantai Tanjung Rhu). Rent a car and park at Scarborough Fish and Chips and enjoy good service, food and beach chairs with a view. If you are a beach lover, drive to the tiny Sandy Skulls beach, which is a shallow, white sand beach on the northeast side of Langkawi facing Thailand.

I had read in the news about the venomous box jellyfish, but I did not see any in Langkawi, and encounters are very rare. Look for warning signs, wear protective clothing and keep an eye out for jellyfish when you’re swimming. If you are stung, health experts recommend calling 999 immediately, pouring vinegar on the area and removing the tentacles with a stick or tweezers. Getting to a hospital quickly is absolutely vital, as venomous jellyfish can have severe health effects.

2. Spend a day at Kilim Geoforest Park

Kilim Geoforest Park is on the north end of the island, on the Andaman Sea. It’s about an hour’s drive from Cenang Beach on a two-lane highway that runs through the island’s capital city of Langkawi, where you can stop at Eagle Park and see its famous eagle sculpture.

Many companies, like Viator and Get Your Guide, heavily promote pre-booking tours of the mangrove park, however, I was able to walk in and book a private tour on the spot, although this may vary by season as there weren’t many tourists. Boat tours are available by the hour, from two to five hours. On my three-hour tour, I saw the main sights, including the bat cave, fish farm and crocodile cave and then went to the Andaman Sea for some beach time, a highlight of my trip to Langkawi. The white sand beaches are shallow and quiet, with views of Thailand in the distance.

It’s important to note that monkeys are everywhere in Langkawi and can be aggressive. Don’t carry open food in your backpack or even open a canned drink when you’re in the park. Not only will they grab them right out of your hands, they will open up your backpack to see what’s inside, as I discovered in a face-off on a beach. These are wild animals, but they have become accustomed to being fed by tourists unfortunately.

3. Get on the water: Island hopping

Langkawai has thousands of islands and there are many island-hopping tours. These tours are not quite developed for mass tourism, but the cost is affordable – only 55 RM ($12 USD) for four hours of island-hopping and a beach stop. (Find options on Viator here).

A shuttle will pick you up at your hotel, take you to the marina, and then the captain will take you at breakneck speed across the water to see Pregnant Maiden and Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest Park, which is part of the UNESCO Geopark and has a fresh water lake. Eagles are the symbol of Langkawi and on these sightseeing trips a popular activity is eagle feeding which is a close up way to see many eagles at once, although I had deep reservations about this as a tourist attraction. Make sure to bring water and watch out for those monkeys!

4. Stay at a local guesthouse or home stay

While there are several luxury hotels including the Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton and St Regis, staying in a locally owned guest house brings you even closer to the Malay culture.

For a more rugged experience, Golden Chenang Village caters to young couples and backpackers, and is walking distance to the beach. There are 10 modernized wooden homes, some one-story versions and others with the bedroom on the second floor and a kitchenette downstairs. As one might expect, there are no elevators and it’s a rustic experience but the rooms are comfortable and well-equipped, with kettles, a TV and wifi. However, since the highway runs just behind it, ear plugs are required. Golden Chenang’s secret is the very popular onsite restaurant run by women, Golden Bamboo Café, which operates separately and is open for breakfast and lunch.

McMurtrie also runs Temple Tree Resort next door, which is more upscale, with 21 rebuilt, brightly painted colonial-era houses that make it feel like you’re walking around a neighbourhood. With both properties, a continental breakfast is available and placed in your room the night before, so that you can eat at your leisure. One of my favourite morning routines was journaling outside, listening to the birdsong of orioles, Asian koels and common myna, and sipping the local Malaysian coffee from the duty-free made with the kettles and water provided. Sometimes it’s all about the simple pleasures.

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