Six things not to miss in Bangkok, Thailand

by Tanzila Khan

If there’s one thing Bangkok teaches you, it’s that you can’t have a checklist. Bangkok has one of its own, and when you’re travelling solo in a wheelchair, it’s ever-changing. Bangkok wasn’t designed with wheelchairs in mind, but with some patience and a bit of sass, you can roll through it and experience the bustling city and join in its vibe. On this trip, my adventures range from using public transit to losing my phone in a taxi, all of which add to Bangkok’s mystique and appeal.

My relationship with Thailand began in 2011, when I was invited to Bangkok to attend a training workshop on sexual reproductive and health rights as part of my disability advocacy in Pakistan. Upon entering the Thai Airways aircraft, the flight attendant put a small flower on my shirt as a welcoming gesture. I felt the hospitality of Thailand even before the plane had left my country of Pakistan. Since then, I have often been to Bangkok, usually for work with the United Nations on disability rights. Over a decade later, I am wheeling through Bangkok solo, convinced I know this city inside out. Turns out, familiarity doesn’t stop Bangkok from surprising you

Lessons from solo travelling Bangkok in a wheelchair

1. Take public transit

I am pleasantly surprised by the vast and beautiful Suvarnabhumi Airport and face no issues in leaving the aircraft, collecting luggage and passing through immigration. At the airport, wheelchair-accessible metered taxis are available, but I chose to travel by the BTS Skytrain. It’s affordable, accessible and is much quicker than using a taxi, especially during peak hours.

The BTS Skytrain and MRT aren’t perfect, but big stations like Asok, Mo Chit, Siam, and Phaya Thai have elevators, wide gates, and staff who inform you about accessible stations if you can show them your destination.

2. Find a hotel in a good location

Bangkok showers you with its hospitality, and you can feel that across a wide range of hotels. Rooms aren’t always accessible, but the staff are friendly and helpful, and I take help by asking for a shower chair for bathing. I am staying at De Prime at Rangnam, and it’s a fairly accessible hotel with no particular accessible room, but a good location.

3. Enjoy the street food

Once I check in, leave my bag and use the loo, it’s time to explore the city and see how far we both have come. I head out and find roadside pad thai with shrimp. It also reminds me of a cooking class I took once at the House of Taste Thai Cooking School, where I learned how to make pad thai, spring rolls and mango sticky rice along with strangers. The place was on the ground floor, and the in-house team helped me move my wheelchair every time we had to use the cooking induction in the next room. The experience made me appreciate Thai food even more as I remember each step being carefully scripted to get the flavour and aroma to reach the palette and then to the memory bank.

A part of the cooking class experience includes a visit to the local market to see where all the fruits, vegetables and spices are sourced. I see snails, snakes and other insects being sold in bulk and find the courage to casually ask, ‘Are these part of the Thai diet?’ The shop owner laughs and tells my host that they are for charity, as if we can free any of these small living creatures back to their habitat for God’s pleasure. I laugh and say, ‘You mean pay their ransom?’ They all think I am funny

4. Try a tuk-tuk!

The equivalent of a magic carpet in Bangkok is the tuk-tuk. This is a four-wheeler open-air taxi, which we call a Raksha in Urdu. They are spacious enough for my wheelchair to be folded and I am able to get up and get on the seat. The rides are cheaper than a taxi but here you are also tested for your bargaining skills and the joy of fixing a price with the owner as you hop on.

Once the tuk-tuk starts moving, there is no turning back. The brakes are applied only once you reach your destination and the breezy ride is one to always remember.

5. Enjoy the local markets

For the next few days, I move around Bangkok, looking at how the city is evolving with more markets and buildings. I stumble upon markets such as Pratunam night market, Chatuchak Weekend Market and Pat Pong that become vibrant at night and connect with bars, clubs and also the red light district. While vendors call out to sell me their products, they also call out to ask where I am from. These small flickers of cultural exchange help me feel connected to the city. Even with a language barrier, the language spoken is that of hospitality and empathy and I feel safe, even if the city infrastructure is not particularly wheelchair accessible.

Although I am not a huge shopping fan, I don’t mind picking up a few locally handmade products such as rice soaps, coconut creams and colourful skirts that are less than USD $10. I visit MBK spell out and Platinum Malls that are accessible, vast and allow me to bargain my price with the vendors. The malls also have accessible bathrooms and many restaurants that offer halal food.

Don’t miss Asiatique the Riverfront

Asiatique The Riverfront is a tourist destination that offers a variety of attractions, including rides, shows, dining, and shopping. This is also the place where I saw Calypso show for the first time, a curated series of performances by ladyboys. I invite some friends, and the four of us arrive at the show and settle in. As the show begins, I realize I am looking at the same performers from 10 years ago, who have only grown in age. I scream, shout and sing along. However, when I decide to take pictures, I realize that I don’t have my phone with me. My heart sinks, but my smile stays in its place.

I recall the moment in the taxi when I placed my phone in the back seat pocket to charge its battery. I share this with my friends, and we sit down to figure out all the options. Suddenly, the buzz of Bangkok around me vanishes and I sink into guilt and worry. The next day, my friend accompanies me to the police station, where I see an officer who speaks very little English. I explain my situation while he writes down every detail. It was that moment when I relaxed and accepted it all as part of my journey.

I thank the police and head back to my hotel. As I pack, I chuckle to myself, thinking about all the beautiful moments this city has given me. I lost my phone, but perhaps it’s my way of leaving a memory behind. I raise a toast to Bangkok, to more adventures, to more joy and then head to the airport promising myself to come back for more of the unknown.

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