A solo adventure to Belgium teaches new lessons about adaptability and perseverance

by Tanzila Khan

If there’s one thing solo travel teaches you, it’s that adaptability is the most important thing to pack when you travel. When I decided to visit Brussels, my motivation was to satisfy my desire for Belgium’s waffles, chocolate and French fries. But as I should have known, it would never be that easy. My journey became more than just a trip; it was a lesson in perseverance, complete with trick questions, unexpected detours, and not nearly enough charging points for my wheelchair.

But in the face of every logistical headache and architectural oversight, I did what every good solo traveller does: I adapted, faced my fears, and then set out stronger than before. In the end, it had a full-on love affair —with chocolate, with cobblestones, and with every single moment that tested my wheels and my will.

Getting to Brussels: Cold realities and no chocolate in sight!

Like all love stories, mine began with a flight, a coat, a cap, and a French playlist I didn’t understand but swayed to anyway.

Belgium is part of the European Union, and with a valid Swedish Residence Permit, I did not worry much about the visa or even the ticket as there are many budget-friendly airlines in Europe that can offer cheaper tickets in off tourist season. I was flying in January and found a round-trip ticket on Ryanair for a four-day trip for USD 72.

The flight to Charleroi Airport was smooth, but as we landed, I waited for a few extra minutes in the aircraft to get my wheelchair to the doorstep as promised by Ryanair. While I waited, I put on my beret cap and a colour-changing lipstick that I picked earlier in Doha, which changed colours and got darker with time. I stayed positive and in the character of a traveller on wheels, but positivity would be out of the window if I had to use the loo.

My wheelchair arrived securely, and I was excited to reach the city to join a 4 pm walking city tour that I had booked early on. But the first challenge occurred as soon as I landed: Flibco, the only bus service from the airport, wasn’t wheelchair accessible. A taxi would break the bank, so I opted for the train, only to get lost looking for the local shuttle bus to Charleroi Station. No signs, limited assistance, and a lot of battery loss in the process. My fingers were frozen, and my patience was melting.

I finally found the bus, which was accessible (a small win) and made it to the train station — only to be told I needed to book wheelchair assistance in advance. While I fought my tears, I wondered, ‘Why must spontaneity come at such a high cost for people with disabilities?’

Two hours later, drained and blinking red (both emotionally and literally — my wheelchair battery). I was finally on the train to Brussels and reached an hour after the walking tour would have ended.

The hotel that ghosted me

I had booked a bed in a hostel as my accommodation through Booking.com using my reward points, right in the heart of Brussels, to have access to many attractions, such as all the museums and chocolate shops. Or so I thought.

Upon arrival, I discovered the hotel was closed — not figuratively, but physically shut. No one picked up the phone earlier when I wanted to get verification. No reply to emails, so I was stranded in a new city with no bed and a wheelchair with no battery.

Booking.com helped me get a bed booked at the Sleep Well Hostel and refunded my money. Although I did find a bed and a plug to charge my battery, I did not find an accessible room and had to use the bathroom in the reception area.

Cobblestones: The Brussels experience

I started exploring Brussels as soon as I left my bag in the room. I didn’t give up on the tour. I signed up for a walking tour titled “Dark Stories of Brussels,” imagining eerie alleys and mysterious legends. It started off great with stories about a serial killer that turned out to be a pig and a prison that was now a five-star hotel. But soon I was to live my own dark story. Just as the guide was about to continue, my chair blinked and died. I stayed back at the reception of the same hotel to charge my battery as the group continued before my eyes.

The trip was not turning out to be how I had planned. Still, I persevered. Because if I came here for chocolate, I wasn’t leaving without a story to tell.

A workshop that melted my heart and some cocoa

The next day, I signed up for a chocolate-making workshop for 45 euros. The place was accessible, the instructor patient, and the chocolates divine. But this combination could be achieved through pre-arrangement. I emailed them earlier about being a wheelchair user, and they were able to provide me with a table that suited my height. I was able to wheel right up to my workspace and enjoy making the chocolates, but could not make any friends as everyone else worked on a different level of their tables.

The chocolate-making workshop was a hands-on, sensory-rich experience where we learned to temper chocolate, create ganache, and mould pralines in fun shapes. With a variety of toppings and techniques, it offered both creativity and indulgence. It all ended with us sipping some delicious hot chocolate and also taking back the chocolates we had made in a box. But in this workshop, I didn’t just learn about shaping chocolate. I also asked about the sources of chocolate and if the process was Fairtrade and free of violations of human rights, because the cocoa was sourced from Africa. I also learned about a third kind of chocolate, the ruby chocolate. It had a berryish taste, and what incredible things this chocolate can be used for amazed me.

In the end, going to Belgium in a wheelchair wasn’t about ticking Brussels off my list. It was about rewriting the list entirely—on my own terms, one adventure at a time, for all travellers on wheels like me. So, to anyone watching the trains go by: come aboard. The tracks may be bumpy, but the experience? Unforgettable.

How to get to Brussels

 From North America, many airlines fly to Brussels. Check for flights here.

While the best way to get around Belgium is, of course, by train. With the high-speed train, you can travel very fast and easily between the main cities. Book your train trip here on Trainline.

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