Featured image: There are culinary experiences in Lyon for any taste | Photo by Brice Robert Photographe for Only Lyon Tourism

Culinary experiences in Lyon for every woman, even me

by Carolyn Ray

To the casual observer, Lyon, France’s second-largest city, might appear intimidating. After all, with over 2,000 years of history, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a major European centre for the textile industry. It’s also the epicentre for gastronomy in France. The French take their food seriously; in fact, the Gastronomic meal of the French is listed under UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2010 and will be celebrating its 15th anniversary in 2025.

When I’m invited on a gastronomic exploration of Lyon, I’m not sure it’s for me. My approach to food and cooking has been rather, shall we say, minimal over the years. While I love consuming food, I don’t plan, shop or cook meals unless it’s essential. Years ago, I recall getting inspired by Julia Childs and purchasing an entire set of baking utensils, pots and pans, but to be honest, an air fryer is probably more my style these days.

I arrive in Lyon with some trepidation. Will I stand out as a culinary novice? Or will I be warmly welcomed into brasseries and bouchons? There are more than 5300 restaurants in Lyon, and the city holds the most Michelin stars in France, after Paris. Everywhere I turn, there are welcoming patios and cafes that invite me to relax, enjoy the day and revel in the moment. I discover that there are culinary experiences in Lyon for every woman, and every palette.

Diving into Lyon’s gastronomic pleasures, my education begins

No sooner do I get off the train in Lyon than I’m whisked away for a leisurely lunch at Café Terroir, a small bistro that offers local products sourced from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Run by Jean-François Têtedoie, the menu reads like a culinary bible of Lyon’s specialties: signature dishes like homemade terrine and roasted pistachio sausage floating in Maison Sibilia red wine sauce. Since I’m jet lagged, I convince myself that the hot chocolate mousse, with praline heart and hazelnut cocoa sorbet will be the perfect sedative for a restorative sleep.

But first, there’s an afternoon walking tour through Vieux Lyon. Through my food-glazed eyes, I see a crowd gathering near a colourful window. Is it a celebrity, or an incredible sale, I wonder? No, it’s the shop window of chocolatier Maison Pralus, where pralines of every colour beckon in the shop window.

Pralines, which are made from roasted hazelnuts or almonds, are a Lyonnaise specialty. Inside the store, it’s a foodie frenzy, crowded with people lining up to purchase raspberry tarts and chocolate puff pastry. I’m momentarily enraptured by the window display for the tarte à la praline, a cake covered with a layer of crushed pink sugar-coated almonds and syrup, mixed with cream. Look away, I tell myself!

Lyonnaise Bouchons, for authentic traditional cuisine

By early evening, I am surprised to feel the pangs of hunger again. Clearly, my stomach is enjoying Lyon. My orientation continues with dinner at an authentic Lyonnais bouchon: Palais Grillet, the latest addition to the Association des Bouchons Lyonnais. A bouchon is considered the most authentic type of Lyonnaise restaurant, serving traditional cuisine such as sausages, coq-au-vin, salade lyonnaise, duck pâté or roast pork. Some bouchons still serve a meal known as the ‘mâchon’, which was historically eaten by silk workers early in the morning. It includes local charcuterie served along with regional wines. Although there are many bouchons in Lyon, only 24 are “certified” with the Bouchons Lyonnaise label, guaranteeing traditional cuisine, fresh produce and an authentic experience.

Despite not having slept for 24 hours, I feel an urge to order a three-course meal, including the salade de chevre frais (goat cheese with artichoke) and the paleron de bœuf (beef in white wine). Vanilla ice cream follows, along with a digestif and a cookie. I stumble to my hotel room, grateful that there’s an e-biking expedition in the morning to work off the five million calories I’ve eaten in one single day.

The joy of a simple food court

Fortunately, the next day is more my style as we visit La Commune, Lyon’s first food court, in the heart of the 7th arrondissement, for lunch. Established in 2018, this is a culinary incubator supporting emerging chefs, who can stay for a year to practice their craft and get feedback and receive coaching from professional chefs. La Commune has supported 50 chefs, and more than 20 have opened their own restaurants. All the food must be from within 200 kilometres of Lyon. I’m told that about 30 percent of the chefs are female, and that they hope to see that increase.

At La Commune, the vibe is casual. There are indoor picnic tables, a bar area and food stalls offering everything from authentic Asian cuisine to Mediterranean flavours, Latin American delights, and traditional French dishes. I wander through trying to decide between “Kim’s Bap” (Korean), “Cholita” (Bolivia), or “Fuori di Pasta” (Italian). I settle on “Bouchi Bouchi” after watching the long lineup and dig into the marinated Japanese Beef Tataki, which turns out to be a delicious decision. An after-lunch saunter results in the purchase of an irresistible vanilla teddy bear chocolate and a homemade cookie smothered in hazelnut and chocolate sauce. I never eat dessert. What is happening to me?

Fourvière is the site of the original Roman settlement of Lugdunum in 43 B.C. The ancient Roman theatre-Odeon-temple complex was built on the orders of Emperor Augustus and completed in 15 B.C. There’s a large amphitheatre, called Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls, which welcomed 20,000 spectators and performers. Next to it is the Odeon, a smaller theatre built at the end of the first or beginning of the second century B.C. In June or July, the Roman amphitheatre hosts the Nuits de Fourviere Festival, Lyon’s second biggest festival after the Festival of Lights in December. Rather than take the funicular down, I opt for a long walk back to my hotel, Hotel Le Royale, at Place Bellecour, and squeeze in a quick nap. I’m going to need all my strength for dinner!

My graduation: dinner with a Michelin Chef

My Lyonnaise graduation culminates with a private dinner hosted by renowned Michelin Chef Christian Têtedoie hosted at the Michelin-starred Bistrot Têtedoie, nestled at the top of Fourvière Hill. Chef Têtedoie received the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1996 and was named in the guide of “master chefs of France” in 1998. He was trained by the legendary Paul Bocuse, known as “the pope of gastronomy”. The Bocuse d’Or, a biennial world chef championship, bears his name.

Chef Têtedoie doesn’t speak English, but it’s clear that he’s intensely passionate about the craft and beloved by his team. He walks among the tables, explaining the menu and ingredients for this culinary extravaganza, which include ouef parfait, pois carrés and aubergine fumée, palet de butternut, crouton de Panisse de haricot viande, jus de courge, arroche and graine de chia, and poire de la Maison Saignant, poivre des Gorilles et blé Kamut. It’s so creatively displayed that it looks like art, not food. I am awestruck with delight.

As a newbie to the culinary world, I’ve discovered a newfound appreciation for the creativity and inventiveness of the chefs in this region. The Lyon Street Food Festival in June is another opportunity for newbies like me to engage in gastronomic delights. Lyon’s Grand Hôtel-Dieu, a former hospital, hosts Lyon’s Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, which highlights every aspect of food and gastronomy. From September 21, the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie will host the 17th Biennale d’Art contemporain de Lyon.

If food is the way to our hearts, culinary experiences in Lyon are a wonderful place to start.

How to get to Lyon

From Canada, several airlines fly direct to Paris, including Air France, Air Canada. There’s also a new low-cost entrant, French Bee. Check for flights here.

From Paris, there is a high-speed direct train to Lyon that takes about two hours. Check Trainline for schedules here.

In Lyon, use the Lyon City Card, which provides access to museums, attractions, guided tours, cruises and more.

Where to stay in Lyon

Hotel Le Royale: A five-star hotel on Place Bellecour with luxurious suites, part of the Accor Hotel Group.

L’Académie Hôtel: For longer stays, this 12-room hotel in Vieux Lyon was awarded the prestigious Clef Verte label, in recognition of its efforts to promote more responsible tourism.

Roosevelt Hotel: This eco-friendly hotel is certified by Ocean 52, providing a sustainable, comfortable stay in the heart of the city.

Recommendations from JourneyWoman readers

• Hotel Vaubecour
• Gites de France
• Mercure Lyon Centre
• Hotel Vaubecour Lyon
• Global Greeters: for free tours of Lyon
• Globe et Cecil
• Cour des Loges

Disclaimer: This article is part of our series on fascinating UNESCO World Heritage sites and off-season travel. The author was a guest of Visit Lyon and Visit France, who did not review this article prior to publication.

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