Featured image: France in the low season means fewer crowds and lower prices. Consider the Grand Est region for a visit | Photo by Netfalls on Envato

Enjoy UNESCO World Heritage cathedrals, canals and champagne without the crowds

by Carolyn Ray

Forty years ago, I stood gazing up at Reims Cathedral in France, on my way to school in Switzerland. I remember being completely awestruck by the Gothic grandeur of this Cathedral – and its resilience, surviving centuries of wars, the French Revolution, fires and bombings. It’s an iconic symbol of France and a testament to its history – more than 30 French kings were crowned here for almost 900 years, including Charles VII, in the presence of Joan of Arc. 

Reims is just one of the historic cities in the Grand Est region of France, created in 2016 by the union of Alsace, Lorraine, and Champagne-Ardenne. This region attracts most of its tourism in the summer and around Christmas, making the low season between September and November a more attractive and temperate time to visit. I’ve arrived in late October from Lyon, after a foodie extravaganza, when there are less crowds and plenty of sunshine. The Grand Est region is just a few hours by train from Paris, Reims, Strasbourg and Nancy offer a unique mix of French and Germanic traditions, with world-famous UNESCO World Heritage sites, culinary experiences and charming boutique hotels. And yes, champagne!

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Reims, the home of Champagne and Coronations

Reims (pronounced ‘raans’) was almost destroyed in both world wars. In WWI, its much-venerated Notre-Dame de Reims was heavily bombed, creating a wave of outrage and horror. In the Second World War, Reims was a key strategic location for the Allies to continue their capture of German territory. In fact, the unconditional surrender of the German Third Reich was signed in Reims in the early morning hours of Monday, May 7, 1945, at Supreme Headquarters, Allied Expeditionary Force (SHAEF).

Reims Cathedral represents the heart of France, making it iconic. Not only is it beloved for its history and resilience, but also as a symbol of hope. Centuries ago, craftsmen embedded a smiling angel at the entrance, unusual for that time. It’s said that she is a symbol of hope, and of the city coming back to life. When I see her smiling, I smile back, believing just for a moment she can bestow all those centuries of hope in me.

Today, Reims may be better known for its champagne, the wine of kings and the king of wines. I have vivid memories of my first glass of champagne at Perrier-Jouet on my first trip to Europe. When I visit Taittinger, I’m surprised by the enormous underground chalk pits dating back to the 4th century, which provide the perfect cooling environment for 12 to 13 million bottles of champagne. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Taittinger’s cellars are built on the Abbey of Saint-Nicaise. Taittinger has managed the champagne house for nearly a century. Vitalie Taittinger took over from her father, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, in early 2020, making it one of the few independent champagne houses in France.

Travel tips for Reims

Where to stay:  Hotel La Caserne Chanzy, a charming boutique hotel that faces the cathedral

Don’t miss: Maison Fossier, est. 1756, the oldest biscuit factory in France, for its Biscuit Rose de Reims (Pink Biscuit of Reims).  Tours for Taittinger can be booked on its website or on GetYourGuide here.

Where to eat:  La Brasserie de Jardin and Château de Sacy, a 15-minute drive from the downtown area.

Learn more about Reims, Grand Est, here.

Strasbourg, “Le Petite France”

The grandeur of Strasbourg’s flamboyant Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg (Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg) takes me by surprise. Stepping into the sunny square, I am unprepared for its imposing presence: with the steeple completed in 1439, Notre-Dame of Strasbourg was the tallest edifice in Christendom up until the 19th century. In 1988, the Strasbourg Cathedral was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List along with the historic centre of the city (called the “Grande Île”) because of its outstanding Gothic architecture.

Although visitors can climb the 330 stairs to the top and see as far as the Vosges Mountain Range and Germany’s Black Forest, I stay tethered to the ground to gape at the Astronomical Clock. A Renaissance masterpiece, the clock was inherited from the Protestant Reformation and constructed around 1547 by a team of Swiss clockmakers. At 12:30 p.m. each day, the apostles march out in front of Christ. Their procession is punctuated by a cock beating its wings and crowing. Lower down, there are the four stages of life (a child, an adolescent, an adult and an old man), which pass every quarter of an hour before Death.

A short walk away is the most picturesque part of Strasbourg’s old town, The Petite France, formerly the millers’ and tanners’ district. The half-timbered houses next to canals are so photogenic that I can’t help but pose on a bridge, wondering if I’m in Germany or Belgium. After a delicious lunch in Chez Yvonne, a traditional Alsacian “winstub” frequented by celebrities and politicians since 1873, I take an hour-long boat tour on the Ill River, which shows a different perspective and tells the story of German occupation during WW2.

Travel Tips for Strasbourg

Where to stay: Hotel Maison Rouge, where I am greeted with an enormous salt-encrusted pretzel

Don’t miss: Strasbourg is the UNESCO “World Book Capital”, promoting books and reading in all its forms. It was while living in Strasbourg between 1434-1444 that Gutenberg developed the moving-type printing press. You can see his statue in Place Gutenberg. It also has one of the oldest and most well-known Christmas markets in Europe, dating back to 1570.

Where to eat:  Foie gras was invented in Strasbourg around 1789, but there are other specialties including baeckeoffe, the tarte flambee and Munster cheese. For a culinary experience, try Michelin-star restaurant 1741, where I had the most decadent meal of my life. There is no rigidly established menu; all meals are tailor-made in 5, 7, or 9 courses. A five-course menu starts at 112 euros. At Chez Yvonne try the Kalbskopft wie ein Eintoph gegart (calf’s head) or the zanderfilet auf de Haut gebraten (perch), as I did.

Learn more about Strasbourg here.

Nancy, the city with the golden gates

Walking into Nancy’s splendid Place Stanislas, I feel like a princess entering the gilded gates of a palace. This 18^th-century pedestrian square has sparkling fountains that reportedly once flowed with wine when it was inaugurated by Stanislaw Leszczynski, the last duke of Lorraine, in 1755. Place Stanislas is widely considered to be the finest royal square in Europe and one of the most beautiful squares in the world. It’s easy to see why — it is truly grand in every sense, with gold gilded gates, and its own triumphal arch, constructed in honour of Louis XV, king of France.

Place Stanislas has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983, including Place de la Carrière, Place d’Alliance. Place Stanislas was created by Stanisław Leszczyński, a deposed king of Poland who became Duke of Lorraine through his son-in-law, Louis XV. He chose this site because of its location between Nancy’s old (Ville Vieille) and new (Ville Neuve) towns. Wanting to see it empty, I slip back in the early morning when there are only residents walking their dogs.

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Nancy is also the birthplace of the Art Nouveau movement, which drew inspiration from nature and flourished between 1894 and 1909. There were other places in Europe that embraced Art Nouveau, like Ålesund, Norway, but its elaborate craftsmanship was seen as frivolous and was replaced by Art Deco with its simple, clean lines. In Nancy, artist Emile Gallaé (1846-1904) played an important and pioneering role in this movement, alongside Louis Majorelle (1859-1926), the co-founder of the École de Nancy. The Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy (The School of Nancy) exhibits a collection of glass art, ceramics, furniture, ironwork, bookbinding, stained glass, sculpture and architecture. If you recognize the name Majorelle from Marrakesh, Morocco, this is the same family. The son of Louis Majorelle, Jacques Majorelle (1886–1962) was a French painter from Nancy, who gifted the gardens to Yves St. Laurent.

Majorelle was a bronze sculptor and master glassmaker, most well-known for creating prestigious pieces of furniture produced in series, much of which is on display in his home, Villa Majorelle. Designed by Henri Sauvage, influenced by Hector Guimard and Lucien Weissenburger, this beautiful three-storey house features several semi-circle windows and floral patterns covering the exterior. Managed by the city, it is open to individual visitors on Wednesday to Sunday afternoons from 14:00 to 18:00; reservations are required.

With its cathedrals, canals and champagne, the Grand Est region of France is a jewel – with so much to be discovered. And if you want to escape the crowds, visit during the off season when there are no crowds, less lineups and more authentic experiences.

Nancy Travel Tips

Where to stay: Best Western Crystal

Don’t miss: The Daum Collection, Nancy Thermal Resort

Where to eat: Café Foy on Place Stanslav, Latoq, a Michelin-star restaurant, Brasserie Excelsior Restaurant

Learn more about Nancy in Grand Est here.

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How to get to Grand Est, France

Many airlines fly direct to Paris, including Air France and Air Canada. There’s also a new low-cost entrant, French Bee. Check for flights here.

From Paris, there is a high-speed direct train that takes about three hours to get to the Grand Est region. Check Trainline for schedules here.

Disclaimer: This article is part of our series on fascinating UNESCO World Heritage sites and off-season travel. The author was a guest of Grand Est Tourism, who did not review this article prior to publication.

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