With its medieval village, world-class gastronomy and Gothic monuments, Rouen is a hidden gem in France

by Carolyn Ray

In 1431, a young shepherdess became the greatest heroine of French History. Born in Lorraine, France, Jeanne claimed she heard voices telling her to free France from the English occupation. With her hair cut short and dressed like a man, she fights and wins the battle against the English, alongside the future French King Charles VII. Victorious, she leads the King to his coronation at Reims Cathedral in 1429. Later, in Paris, she is taken prisoner by the Burgundians and sold to the English, who imprison her in Rouen Castle and execute her at age 19. Her crime: heresy – including being a feminist and wearing men’s clothes.

Just two hours from Paris by train, the 2,000-year-old city of Rouen is dedicated to the memory of Joan of Arc. Today, a large silver cross marks the spot where she was burned at the stake in the Place du Vieux-Marché. At the time, her ashes were tossed into the Seine River. Today, Joan of Arc is a patron saint of France and was canonized by the Pope in 1920. Every May, Rouen celebrates the memory of Jeanne d’Arc on the anniversary of her death.

From Joan of Arc to Claude Monet’s paintings of its Gothic cathedral to Richard the Lionheart’s deep love for France, Rouen is a city that never forgets the moments that changed history.

Claude Monet’s Gothic Cathedral

My first afternoon in Rouen is spent on a whirlwind walking tour of Rouen’s charming medieval area. After walking past inviting cafes, I meet my guide, Lisa Concato, at Rouen’s Gothic cathedral, made famous by impressionist painter Claude Monet. Monet lived in Giverny, only a short drive from Rouen, for 43 years, from 1883 to 1926.

Monet visited Rouen and painted the Rouen Cathedral over 30 times, capturing the exterior of the cathedral and the shifting light across the stones of the medieval structure. Built in the 12th century, this Gothic cathedral has survived many conflicts and religious wars, including the French Revolution and more recently the Second World War. The Rouen Cathedral series includes more than 30 paintings, and while most are at museums around the world, there is one in Rouen at the Musée des Beaux-Arts.

About the cathedral, Monet said: “As long as the sun is on it, there will be as many ways of being Rouen Cathedral as man can make divisions in time.”  (Source: Rouen Tourism).

The heart of Richard the Lionheart

We make our way inside the Cathedral, which has a beautiful chapel dedicated to Jeanne d’Arc. Nearby, I notice an effigy of a king and am surprised to learn that it’s of Richard the Lionheart, the King of England 1189 to 1199. As the third son of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, Richard (1157-1199), should never have ruled, but his two older brothers, William and Henry the Younger, died and Richard was crowned King of England, Duke of Aquitaine, Duke of Normandy and Earl of Maine and Anjou on the death of his father Henry II.

To show his love for Normandy, the King’s heart was embalmed in Rouen Cathedral, although his body and brain are buried elsewhere, as per tradition. His heart was undiscovered until church renovations in 1838, when a small lead box was found under his effigy. Inscribed on the lid was the phrase in Latin: “Here is the heart of Richard, King of England”, with powdered remains inside.

Walking through the cobbled streets, we pass by many Gothic buildings including the stunning Palace of Justice, formerly the seat of the Parliament of Normandy and half-timbered houses that tilt sideways. Although Rouen was badly destroyed during World War II, the city has retained more half-timbered houses than anywhere else in France. There are about 2,000 old half-timbered houses in Rouen, which bring a unique character to this medieval town.

Keeping time through the ages: The Gros-Horloge astronomical clock

About halfway between the cathedral and Place du Vieux-Marché, Rouen’s famous Gros-Horloge (Great Clock) is across one of the main pedestrian streets. Its mechanism is one of the oldest in Europe, dating back to 1389.

Like other well-known astronomical clocks I’ve seen in Prague, Reims and Strasbourg, Rouen’s Gros-Horloge is a scientific marvel, showing not only the time but also the movement of the planets. It’s also possible to enjoy panoramic views of Rouen’s medieval centre from the top of the clock tower for a small fee.

Where to stay in Rouen, France

The Rouen Radisson Blu is less than a 10-minute walk from the train station and is located next to the last remaining part of Rouen Castle, where Joan of Arc was held. Check prices for the Radisson Blu here.

How to get to Rouen

Rather than drive from Paris Charles de Gaulle, take the train from Saint-Lazare train station in Paris. Learn more about France’s train network and purchase your tickets on Trainline.

Once you’re in Rouen, car rental is available at the Rouen Train station. I rented a car from Europcar and road tripped around Normandy from Rouen to Mont-Saint Michel, returning my car in Saint-Malo.

Several companies operate river cruises from Paris on the Seine River and have stops in Rouen, including Viking, Uniworld, Avalon Waterways, Tauck, Emerald Cruises, and CroisiEurope. Find a river cruise in Normandy here. 

While in France I used an eSim from Saily and the Wise app on my phone for small transactions, avoiding currency exchange fees.

Disclaimer: As a guest of Normandy Tourism and Rouen Tourism, Carolyn Ray was not compensated for her time spent researching, travelling and writing this feature, nor was JourneyWoman for publishing it. In addition, the host organizations did not review this article before it was published, a practice that allows the writer to express her perspective with integrity and candour.

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