More than a river, the Danube binds this region together 

by Carolyn Ray

Immortalized in song and verse, the Danube River is Europe’s second longest, running from Germany to the Black Sea. There’s no more authentic way to travel into history in Eastern Europe than on the Danube River, once a major thoroughfare for navigation and trade. It flows through and forms the boundaries for 10 countries, including Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova, and Ukraine, and world capitals like Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade.

Along its banks are ancient settlements, castles, fortresses and signs of long-lost dynasties. As a guest on Uniworld’s 12-day Eastern European River Cruise, my journey starts in Budapest, Hungary and ends in Bucharest, Romania. Every port along the way, from Budapest to Vukovar to Giurgiu, has its own story of resilience, courage and resolve. And what better way to learn about the past than to navigate as our ancestors once did, by ship.

My journey on an Eastern European River Cruise

Bridging the past in Budapest, Hungary

Hungary’s two halves – Buda and Pest — are connected by four bridges that stretch across the capital city, once the site of the Roman city of Aquincum. I arrive a day early to enjoy the Sunday market at the Ruin Bars, the Dohány Street Synagogue and walk along the river.

Guided by Gabrielle, our first day is spent learning about life in Socialist Hungary. At the Retro Museum, there are exhibits that replicate living rooms and apartments, with cookie-cutter couches and furniture. In the 1960s and 1970s, there were only two television stations that showed Soviet films and Czech cartoons. On Mondays, there was no television until 1987. Other programming included the “TV bear”, a nightly animated reminder for children to brush their teeth and a five-minute daily exercise program.

Gabrielle approaches the past with a touch of humour, saying that Budapest’s socialism was ‘less severe’ than other countries, something she calls ‘Coca-Cola communism’. Although Hungarians couldn’t travel internationally, people had jobs and homes provided to them. Budapest, she says proudly, even had the first McDonald’s in the Eastern Bloc in 1988. Then, only Russian was taught, but today, she says over 90 per cent of schoolchildren are learning English.

Vukovar and Croatia’s hope for the future

We travel on the Danube overnight, arriving in Aljmas in the northeastern part of Croatia in time for breakfast. I sign up for a tour of Osijek and a home-hosted lunch in a small village. Our group is met by Romina, a local guide who enraptures us with her stories of everyday life and local humour. (For example, “What do you call a Yugo (car) on a hill? Answer: A miracle.”) She claims that over-sharing is a Croatian trait and that complaining is a national sport, and her stories endear us to her. Many of those on our tour hug her with tears in their eyes at the end of the day.

During lunch with a local family, our host, a grandmother, is nostalgic about life under the charismatic General Tito, who held the title of president of Yugoslavia until his death in 1980 at age 87. After Tito, she says she had to stand in line for groceries, and the power went off at 4 pm every day. With Tito, she says everyone was treated equally. Life was easier, more predictable.

Romina talks of the impact of the war on the relationship between the Croats and Serbs, and her hope for the next generation to overcome the past. But trust isn’t restored yet; it will likely take generations. In 2014, Norway offered to build an intercultural school to bring together children of Croatian, Serbian and other nationalities and learn about their differences. However, most parents weren’t behind it, so the school never opened.

The border of Serbia and Romania, the gateway to the Iron Gorge

Having seen photographs of the Iron Gates gorge, I’m excited to travel through it. The gorge forms part of the boundary between Serbia and Romania, with the ancient Golubac Fortress in Serbia at the entrance.

Even though it’s raining, I stand outside watching us float past small communities along the river. On the Romanian side, there’s a sculpture of King Decebalus, a famous warrior king who ruled around the year 100 A.D., carved into the mountain. On the Serbian side, there is an ancient memorial plaque, the Tabula Traian, to commemorate the completion of a road by the Roman Empire in the 2nd century AD. I am in awe of this river and the power it has had over lives and history.

Following the Danube into Belgrade and Bulgaria

In Belgrade, the Danube joins with the Sava River, which flows through the three capitals of the former Yugoslavia: Ljubljana, Zagreb and Belgrade. By the time it arrives at Belgrade, the Danube has travelled over 1,500 kilometres and the Sava nearly a thousand. This city of two rivers is best seen from Belgrade Fortress, set high on the cliff. The view is breathtaking, with the bronze sculpture “Victor” rising above the walls of the city, the symbol of Belgrade and victory over time.

Travelling to Ruse, Bulgaria, the 5th largest port on the Danube, we are met by guide Michaelena, who regales us with stories of the failure of communism in her country. As we drive past empty tire factories, she says that much of the agrarian Bulgarian economy was converted to an industrial one, something that ultimately failed.

Afterwards, Bulgarians returned to harvest sunflowers, handmade lace and wine. The pride of Bulgaria is its pure rose oil, which they call liquid gold. At 1200 euros per kg, it’s easy to see why. Not only is it used in cosmetics and perfume, but it’s said to have healing effects for the skin and used for aromatherapy against depression.

Romania, with its heroes and villains

Our final stop on the Danube River is Romania. The entire country of Romania is located almost entirely within the Danube River Basin, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Highly coveted for centuries because of its geographical location, its wealth lies in its natural resources. With extensive gold reserves in the Carpathian mountains, not to mention silver, natural gas and access to the Black Sea, it has been the target of many occupations and military alliances.

In 1989, Nicolae Ceaușescu and his wife Elena were executed after 30 years of rule, bringing an end to a corrupt and powerful dictatorship. Today, Romania is considered a democracy, but the after-effects of communism are visible – In Bucharest, buildings are in disrepair, and because they can’t afford to tear them down or improve them, so they sit empty. Bucharest’s 365,000 square foot Parliamentary Palace, built to impress and show power, is the second largest building in the world after the U.S. Pentagon yet sits virtually empty because it’s too expensive to turn all the lights on.

The Danube is more than a river

During my week on the Danube River cruise, I witness firsthand the kindness and warmth of the people in this region. We’re treated to local guides who openly share their personal experiences, dancers, lecturers and food and wine that reflect the culture and history of this region. While their stories aren’t all the same, the Eastern European crew of the S.S. Beatrice is united in their desire to welcome, educate and connect with us. One of my favourite moments is in the evenings when Bulgarian sommelier Kremena presents her wine selection with the passion and flair of a professional comedian, always to applause and laughter. The crew seeks every opportunity to exceed expectations, and I’m fortunate to have experienced a luxury suite on the ship, complete with two butlers, Marco and Marko, who make every moment special.

On my last night on the S.S. Beatrice, I’m invited to have dinner with Captain Miodrag Cehajic, Hotel Manager Alexandru Marinescu, and Ingrid Can de Ven, the Cruise Manager. As the captain shares stories of his adventures in river cruising, I can’t help but reflect on the journey we’ve been on together for the past 12 days.

The Danube is more than a river. It’s a ribbon that binds the history of this region together, from past to present. While we would like to think that wars, battles and dictators are a thing of the past, there is much to be learned from the pride, passion and perseverance of the people who have lived along its banks. By simply learning about its history, we can all learn from them as a source of hope, rejuvenation and optimism.

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