Featured image: The Douro Valley and Porto in the off-season are a wonderful choice for solo women travellers | Photo by estivillml on Envato

Travel tips for first time solo women for Porto

by Carolyn Ray

Sometimes wandering is the best way to discover a new place. If you feel the urge to travel without reservations or a set agenda, Porto, Portugal, is practically perfect. About two hours north of Lisbon, this UNESCO World Heritage city is beloved by solo women — welcoming, safe and historically vibrant, with no shortage of things to do.

During my five day trip to Porto, there are new and unexpected adventures. From the window of my apartment, I listen to street musicians perform and watch couples dance the tango. On a whim, I hop on a historic trolley, not knowing the destination and find myself at the ocean shore. At sunset, I climb 250 steps to the top of Clérigos Tower for a stunning view of Porto. I book a last-minute river cruise along the Douro River, travelling past lush vineyards to Pinhâo. I even go to a restaurant with no menu – just surprise dishes and mystery cocktails – (all made with the ingredient of love, the waiter claims). 

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Porto is one of those places that’s easy to fall into. It has great public transit, is walkable (if you have the right shoes on and don’t mind hills), fairly affordable and the people are friendly. When I visit in mid-May, there is a lull, just before the high tourist season which starts in June and runs through to September, according to many of the locals I spoke with. 

Why solo women love Porto in the off-season

Porto may be best known for its stunning blue azulejos tiles, which can be seen all over the city on churches, train stations and buildings. These tiles were originally ways for the bourgeoisie to identify their houses in the 19th century and show their importance and status in society.

Porto was also the home author J.K. Rowling, when she taught English in the 1990s. Rumour has it that living in Porto inspired her to write Harry Potter and that she used to drink a cup of coffee on the second floor of the famous art deco Libraria Lello library.

Wherever you wander in Porto, make sure you have comfortable walking shoes or even hiking poles, as it’s very hilly. My pull-on Skechers were perfect. Get yours here!

What to see in Porto

Porto has something for everyone — museums, restaurants, outdoor cafes, churches and of course, the Douro River. If you’re not joining one of the many river cruises that depart from Porto, consider taking a day trip to the Douro Valley. Mine is with Rota do Douro on the Porto – Pinhāo – Porto itinerary. We left Porto by boat at 8:30 am, went through three locks and ended at 5:30 p.m. in Pinhāo. Breakfast and lunch are included, and there is a quick port tasting at Quinta da Roêda winery before returning to Porto by bus around 9:30 p.m. At €105, I thought it was good value. There is also a historic train ride, but it’s not open until June. (Find it here.)

For the popular tourist destinations, such as Clérigos Tower and Livraria Lello, you’ll want to plan ahead and book these in advance. Tickets are booked by the hour; I noticed that groups tend to go in the mornings, so I chose evening time slots. Climbing the Clerigos Tower’s 250 steps is not for the faint of heart, and there’s no elevator. My recommendation is to skip the stairs and watch the light show on the walls of the Igreja dos Clérigos. For the library, there are different prices, ranging from €10 to €50 – the €10 worked for me!

With so many stunning tiled azulejos in Porto, how do you choose which places to visit? I didn’t see them all, but I did stop at Capela das Almas in the commercial area, which was stunning. I also went to Igreja do Convento de São Francisco to see the baroque carvings inside. And of course, you can’t miss São Bento Station (even though much of it is covered up and being restored)

There are many companies offering a 7-bridges boat cruise for €20 that takes about 50 minutes. You can take your choice and just walk on. However, there is no commentary unless you download an app and bring your own headphones, nor are there any bathrooms or food service on board, so be prepared.

Public transit in Porto

The metro in Porto is organized into different zones. From the airport to Trinidade, tickets are €2.00 /$3.20 USD one way (no seniors discounts) at the machines. You can also buy a Porto card, which includes transit and entrance to many museums. On buses, you can pay cash. Near the Clerigos Tower, hopping on the historic tram was a delight. A one-way trip is €6, cash only, or a return trip for €8. The trolley goes to the port entrance and back near the tower; there are two lines, but one is under construction partway.

Speaking of construction, a new metro line is being built, so traffic is very slow in the city. Try to take public transit and remember to validate your tickets even when you change lines, or you may risk a fine. From the airport you can take the E train right to Trinidade station. The area around São Bento train station is under construction, and there are delays due to train strikes.

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Porto’s food and wine are wonderful

If you like wine, you’ll be offered ‘vinho verde’, which is wine with young grapes. It’s refreshing, with a fresh taste, but it can be sweet,t so ask for something dry if that’s your preference. Most glasses of wine are about €5. Of course, Porto is famous for its port, which is offered in flavours like ‘tawny’ or ‘rose’ port, which I enjoyed, much to my surprise.

Make dinner reservations by using the Fork app or directly on restaurant websites. Chama is an experience in itself, with no menu and surprise cocktails! Many restaurants close at 3:00 p.m. and open up again around 6:00 p.m., closing around 10 pm. Quite by accident, when I walked into a Michelin-starred restaurant called Gruta, I looked into the kitchen and realized there was an all-women culinary team. From barnacles, razor clams and mussels to fritto de mare, don’t miss a meal cooked by these female chefs. For fresh fish, take the 500 bus to Matosinhos and look for a place with an open-air grill (get off at the South stop).

At São Bento, the Time Out Market has some great options if you’re planning to hop on the train. There are several restaurants at the Mercado do Bolhão. I ate at Herdade 1980. There is also Peixe no Mercado (no fish) and Casa Vegetariana, all with outdoor seating.

Restaurants recommended by JourneyWoman readers include: Majestic Café, Casa Guedes, Barco Velho, Café Santiago for the best “Francesinha”, Grano Pasta Fresca on the Praca Luis Camoes, Pils, Rosamar, Farmacia, Sal Grosso (in either location) and Estrella de Bica, Caféina and Taberna Santo António, Mind The Glass in Porto near the Livraria Lello, O Triángulo da Ribera for Bifana.

Where to stay in Porto

I stayed in an Airbnb and actually regret it. Although the location was great, it just wasn’t comfortable for a week-long stay. Increasingly, I am finding that business-run Airbnbs (versus those run by individuals) just don’t have the same level of service or comfort. I also had concerns about the digital locks (I could not tell if it was locked, how often was the code changed?), and I felt like I was talking to a bot when I complained. Fortunately, I had my rubber doorstop.

Hotels recommended by JourneyWoman readers include: Casa dos Caldeireiros, Le Monumental Palace, My Ribiera Guesthouse, the Decanting Porto House and Moov Hotel Porto Centre. For more recommendations, check our Places to Stay Directory here.

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More tips from JourneyWoman readers

“Try to get to Aveiro, the ‘Venice’ of Portugal. It’s about an hour south of Porto. You can take a 45-minute boat tour along the canals that gives you the history. It makes a lovely day trip.” — Lynn N.

“Take the train to Braga after visiting Porto. Go to Viana do Castelo, eat fish and seafood from the Atlantic by the sea in Matosinhos … the country is safe, and people are willing to help. Young people speak English well.” — Teresa B.

“I was just in Portugal in the fall solo and loved it! If you like port, you can take a day or half day strolling the south side of Porto in Gaia along the riverfront. All the port houses are there, and they all have delicious snacks or charcuterie. My favourites were Dona Antonia (started by her and extra profits went to the poor) and Vasques de Carvalho (a newer venue on a very quiet street there). Also, if you love music, see a Fado performance in Porto!” — Marlene K. 

“Coimbra by train, Guimaraes by bus. Coimbra is a university town with a beautiful library, gardens, and restored river boat tours (Serranas do Mondego). Guimaraes is a charming village that’s perfect for Douro day trips or simply exploring. I loved them both.” – Beth P.

“I took the train up to Guimaraes. An hour and 15 minutes each way. A pleasant downhill walk to the old town (but a steep uphill walk back). The train is more like an inner-city subway, but it was ok. The seat of Portugal is here. The castle was super, though you have to pay on a website to get in, which was a pain for 2 euros. Be sure to validate your ticket BOTH ways. I didn’t know this, and the conductor said there was a 30O euro fine. He finally cooled his jets and let me off, but it was close!” — Sarah G.

“I really enjoyed Obidos when I visited Lisbon a couple of years ago. I took a bus and stayed overnight to have a chance to see it without the crowds-it’s a lovely and historic little town. Also spent a few glorious days in the Algarve town of Lagos- LOVED it! Enjoy your visit to that beautiful country!” — Susan S.

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