Romania’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, castles, walled cities and fortified churches

by Carolyn Ray

April is stork season in Romania, and there’s no better way to see these majestic white birds than road tripping through small villages in the countryside. Driving from Bucharest with my partner Tom, we pull over repeatedly, necks craned upwards, watching the spectacle as male storks atop electrical poles prepare their nests for the mating season. Storks return to the same nests each year and are believed to represent good luck and prosperity.

We drive north into Transylvania, shifting gears in the rented Dacia up the winding roads through the mountains, passing ski resorts, snow-covered peaks and hairpin turns, making for a breathtaking journey. In some villages, we’re the only tourists passing by stone houses that look centuries old. Many places are closed for the winter, but there are signs of life: I see groups of women dressed in traditional clothing walking along the roadside, farmers plowing the fields and school children playing in front yards.

It’s a stark difference from Bucharest, where drab, cookie-cutter apartment buildings in Romania’s capital city are a constant reminder of a brutal authoritarian dictatorship. It has been less than 40 years since the Romanian Revolution, when communist leader Nicolae Ceaușescu and his wife Elena were executed by a firing squad in 1989. An island among Slavic countries, Romania was settled by the Romans (hence its name), and has a Latin-based language. Most people speak French and words like ‘merci’ have been incorporated into the Romanian language. It’s also becoming popular with digital nomads seeking a lower cost of living and tax benefits. Everyone I meet speaks English.

Stepping into history on a road trip in Romania

While I enjoyed my time in Bucharest’s old town, I’m eager to spend time in Braşov and Sighișoara, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Even though it’s springtime, the weather is unpredictable, so there aren’t many tourists, making it easy to find unique places to visit and stay.

Stop #1: Braşov, one of Transylvania’s seven walled citadels

Less than three hours from Bucharest, Braşov is one of Transylvania’s seven walled citadels or ‘Siebenburgen’ (Seven Fortresses) and my home for three nights. I am charmed the moment I drive through the Schei Gate, one of the original entrances to the old town and see the colourful houses and narrow winding streets. In centuries past, Braşov was a wealthy city with strong political influence, due to its location at the intersection of trade routes linking the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe.

Just a few steps from my boutique hotel is the famous Gothic Black Church (Biserica Neagră), which reportedly got its name from a fire in 1689 that turned it an ash-gray colour. Inside the church, there is a remarkable collection of 17th and 18th-century Anatolian carpets, which were donated in the 17th century.  Braşov is very walkable, and most restaurants don’t require a reservation at this time of year. There are 18th and 19th century houses, most of which are historical monuments, museums, shops and restaurants, mostly concentrated around Council Square (Piața Sfatului), which has held weekly markets since the 1300s. Rope Street is said to be the narrowest street on the European continent at 1.3 metres wide, originally built for firefighters, but now used by Instagrammers doing selfie shots.

I stay at the woman-owned and newly renovated Vila Katharina Boutique Hotel, a 3-bedroom house full of antiques with a jewelry shop in the front. At $100 a night, this includes a gorgeous breakfast served on antique china and a clawfoot bathtub. Heaven!

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Stop #2: Bran Castle, the summer residence of Queen Marie of Romania

With Braşov as my home base, Bran Castle is just a short drive away. I can’t help but gasp when I see this snow-covered castle from a distance, conjuring spooky thoughts of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Built in the 14th century on a rocky hilltop, Bran Castle is modern, stylish and comfortable, albeit with some narrow walkways. A gallery of images in the castle shows that Vlad the Impaler (also known as Vlad Tepes or Vlad Drăculea) lived here from 1431-1476, but the more interesting story is of Queen Marie, who lived here with her family and renovated it.

Queen Marie (Marie-Alexandra Victoria of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha) was the granddaughter of England’s Queen Victoria and Alexander II of the Romanov dynasty, Tsar of Russia. Born in 1875, she was the last queen of Romania. After war broke out, Marie encouraged her husband to stand against Germany, his home country. She attended the Paris Peace Conference of 1919, where her presence encouraged the U.S. and other allies to campaign for the unification of Romania with Transylvania, Bessarabia and other Romanian-speaking territories.

In 1920, Queen Marie received the fortress as a gift from the people of Brașov and renovated it. She transformed it “from a blind thing, into a home with many eyes looking over the world.” In 1922, she was crowned “Queen of all Romanians. Throughout the castle, there are photographs and artifacts from Queen Marie and her family, but the most fun is the secret staircase that leads up to a beautiful library with views of the turrets and surrounding countryside.

Stop #3: Viscri, where traditions are being revived 

Leaving Braşov, we head off the main highway to see the small village of Viscri. Viscri’s UNESCO fortified church dates back to the 12th century and is one of the oldest structures of its kind in Romania. Unfortunately, it became an over-touristed location when Prince Charles’ involvement in preserving the village’s architecture became public, but when we visit, the only tourists are a group of about 15 people bundled up with umbrellas and rain gear, trudging through the mud.

Fortified churches like Viscri were places of worship, community gatherings, and even safe havens within their walls during times of conflict. It’s a steep walk up the ancient stone staircase to the top, but the view of the countryside is worth every single step.

Stop #4: Sighișoara, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Sighişora is known as one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, said to rival Prague or Vienna. I’ve been dreaming of it for weeks, and when we see the walled fortress, turreted towers and 12^th-century medieval clock tower from a distance, I’m awestruck. Sighișoara (pronounced ‘see ghee swahr’ ah) is known as the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler and sits high above the more modern new town. Parking isn’t allowed inside the gates, so we leave the Dacia in a parking lot and climb up to the main square, where excited school children are waiting to climb the tower for the best views of the city.

Founded by German craftsmen and merchants, Sighișoara is quaint and colourful, with inviting restaurants (many in underground cellars), small shops and simple bed and breakfasts. It’s just starting to snow, so we stop for a typical lunch of red pepper soup and warm bread in Stag House, the oldest building dating back to 1568, hard to miss with the deer antlers on the side of the building. This UNESCO fortified citadel has nine towers and covered wooden walkways, one of which leads up to the Church on the Hill. The sunshine is fleeting here, but it doesn’t dispel the wonder of this historic place and the feeling of stepping back into time.

Stop #5: Biertan Fortified Church, a UNESCO World Heritage site and historic monument   

When we arrive in Biertan, it’s almost ready to rain, but much to my joy, no other visitors are walking up its covered stairs. Close to Sighișoara, in Sibiu county, the fortified church of Biertan was constructed between 1486 and 1524 on the site of an earlier Romanesque church. Like Viscri, these fortified churches are more than just architectural wonders; they are cultural treasures that reflect the rich history and heritage of the Saxon people in Romania.

In Bietran, the fortification tunnels are intact, and the church itself has three rows of exterior fortifications linked by gate towers, nine in total. The Catholic Tower’s chapel, build between 1520–1530, features a rare example of 16th-century Transylvanian mural painting, with shimmering blues and turquoises. One of the more unique rooms is the Eastern Bastion, or ‘the prison for unhappy couples’. With a single bed, table and chair, plate, glass and one spoon, this room was set aside for quarrelling couples who had to share until they pledged to get along with each other.

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Stop #6: Peles and Pelisor Castle in Sinaia

On the way back to Bucharest, we stop in Sinaia to see Peles and Pelisor Castles, which sit next to each other in the Carpathian Mountains. Built between 1875-1914, Peles Castle is the former royal residence of King Carol and Queen Elizabeth of Romania. After the forced abdication of King Michael of Romania in 1946, the communist party seized all royal property and closed it.  Today, his 34,000-square-foot palace has been restored as a museum, featuring carved wood, gorgeous stained glass windows, and paintings throughout. There is scaffolding outside due to ongoing restoration efforts, but inside, it is opulent and ornate. There are many tastefully decorated areas that celebrate different cultures – the Moorish Salon, the Turkish Parlour, the Florentine Room, alongside rooms filled with collections of armour, leather, ceramics and musical instruments.

Castle Pelisor is a smaller, art nouveau palace that was built by King Carol I for his nephew, King Ferdinand, in 1899. Tickets can be purchased for both castles, with a supervised tour at Peles Castle every 40 minutes. There are two paid parking lots on the hill, and it’s a steep walk up. Both castles were under construction in April 2025, with reduced operating hours. Get your tickets here. (Tip: If you go, look for La Cerdac restaurant in Busteni.)

Leaving this hilly area, the snow starts again as we descend through the mountains to the airport north of Bucharest. As we pass by Snagov Monastery, the final resting place of Vlad the Impaler, I think of the journey we’ve made in his footsteps, crisscrossing Transylvania on the road less travelled, learning about this country’s history and natural beauty. I hope to see one last stork, but we’re now entering the modern world, leaving the past behind. Like them, I hope to return — but perhaps next time, without my raincoat.

Note: This was a personal trip with no support from the tourism board or any local destinations.  

How to get to Romania

The largest airport in Romania is Bucharest Henri Coanda International, located in Otopeni (20 km North of Bucharest, 140km away from Brasov). The Hilton Garden Inn at the airport is comfortable and affordable. In Bucharest, I stayed at the Marmorosch Hotel in the old town. 

While train travel is possible within Romania, the trains tend to operate with delays and travel at low speeds, which makes a journey with them quite long. Find train schedules here.

Romania is part of the European Union and the Schengen Zone, but has kept its own currency called the Lei, which is about 4x the US dollar (i.e. 100 Lei = USD$25). Cash isn’t needed, and your Wise card will work here.

Renting a car in Romania

Driving in Romania is the easiest way to get around. It’s hilly, so ask for an all-wheel drive, and you’ll need an International Driver’s License to rent a car from the major car rental companies. In Canada, visit a CAA office with your driver’s license and two passport photos. In the US, visit the AAA. Find a car for your road trip in Romania on Booking.com, RentalCars.com, or Expedia.

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