Andalucia’s villages offer new surprises each time

by Carolyn Ray 

Fortunately, the walk from my hotel to the Balcon of Europe is short. As I near the intersection of Calle Hernando de Carabeo, my breath quickens. I know that it’s only a few minutes from here to the edge of a rocky outcrop, where I’ll see the rolling waves of the turquoise Mediterranean Ocean and feel the warm salty wind caressing my face. For months, I’ve been anticipating my return to the small Spanish village of Nerja, a place that captured my heart years ago.

While many travellers enjoy the intoxicating sense of discovery in visiting a new place, I find that there is joy in returning to places I already know. I love Spain’s history and culture, but I also appreciate the familiarity and sense of comfort. Even after so many visits to Spain, I know there’s always more to discover, as I did on a recent trip to Andalucia. I find that when I feel safe and confident, I am more open to learning new things, and can step out of my comfort zone, experiment and feel the heartbeat of a place, rather than just checking it off a list.  Returning to a beloved space is also a way for me to reflect on who I was when I first visited and who I am now, making a return to familiar places a way to practice a more mindful and intentional way of travelling.

Returning to places we know and love

Ronda’s bridge at sunrise

Returning to the hilltop village of Ronda in early September, with its engineering marvel of a bridge across El Tajo gorge, was even more poignant than my last visit in January 2023 on a day trip from Malaga. This time, I stay overnight at the historic Parador de Ronda, which has an exquisite viewpoint overlooking the gorge and valley. In September, Ronda celebrates Feria, and the entire town is covered in colourful banners, women wearing traditional dresses and families together on the streets.

A gift from my last trip to Ronda is knowing that in the afternoons, the bridge is in the canyon’s shadows. Before sunrise, I jump out of bed at 7 a.m. and half-jog to the park under the bridge to be the first person in the gate. I see the gorge’s shadows fill with light, bringing joy to my jetlagged heart. Ronda also has one of the best-preserved Arab Baths in all of Spain and ancient city gates dating back to medieval times, when this was an important crossroads for trade. Just walking through them makes me smile.

But there’s an even better surprise. Near Ronda, we visit the small white village of Sentinel de las Bodegas, where homes and restaurants sit under a massive limestone rock formation along a canyon. It’s already crowded on the village’s most popular street, Calle Herrería, and the tables are full at cafes along Calle Cueva del Sol (Caves of the Sun) and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (Caves of the Shade). Sentinel de las Bodegas is a place for photography and geology buffs, with scenic photos of winding streets, cafes and boutiques. My advice: arrive early for a cortado and leave before the buses arrive from Cadiz. 

Beyond Cordoba’s magnificent mosque

Three years ago, I spent a week in Cordoba just after the holidays. I stayed at the Balcon de Cordoba hotel, which has a back entrance that opens up on the famous Calleja de las Flores (Alley of the Flowers).  Then, it was winter, but in September, the street is jammed with influencers taking selfies among the blue pots on the walls. But there’s more to see in Cordoba. 

On my most recent trip, I venture beyond the Jewish Quarter into the Candelaria District. Strolling through the back alleys, I enjoy a long, leisurely lunch at Ermita de la Candelaria Restaurant. The expansive menu includes mouthwatering portions of culinary delights like rabo de toro as estilo de Cordoba (bull’s tail), croquetas del cocido and berenjena (eggplant) a la crema con quesadilla. I can barely walk after the meal, but fortunately a trip to the Arab Baths (Hammam Al Ándalus Córdoba), follows, the perfect way to relax after a day of sightseeing.

On this trip to Cordoba, I stay at the brand new, beautifully designed Hotel Mezquita Centre in Las Margaritas near the train station. My guide brings me to a family-owned restaurant, Taberna Montillana, where the charismatic owner greets everyone by name. It’s a short walk to the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s no other place in Spain that takes my breath away like the Mezquita. The best way to see it is to be the very first person to step inside in the morning when the gates open or to be the last person at the end of the day. Somehow, even with hundreds of visitors, the mosque is almost silent, a place of reverence and beauty that fills my heart, even after many visits.

Frigliana’s artsy charm

Frigliana is so high in the hills that it feels like you can touch the puffy clouds that float just above its white houses. Narrow, steep mosaic-covered streets feature shops with handmade items, ranging from scarves and jewelry to housewares. It’s the kind of village where movies should be made. (In fact, Mango on Netflix has many familiar scenes). 

The vertical climb to the top of Frigliana isn’t an easy one, but it’s worth it for the views of the ocean and countryside. When you visit, read the tiles on the walls, which tell ancient stories of the women of Frigiliana, and try the local Alhambra cerveza at Vinos El Lagar wine bar, a gourmet food and wine store with a welcoming patio that greets you on the walk down the steep hill. 

Nerja’s rocky cliffs and turquoise seas

Over the holidays a few years ago, I spent two weeks at an apartment in Maro, a small town next to Nerja, with a population of 800 people. When I walked into Nerja for the first time, I knew it was my heart place. At Nerja’s Three Kings Day celebration, I found myself intermixed with the Kings and their families underneath the pergola, and pulled into the festive parade, which eventually made its way to Maro by tractor. Nerja is still small enough to be considered off the grid, but appealing because of its proximity to Malaga and its many attractions, like the Picasso Museum, Alcazar and Roman Amphitheatre. Nerja has its own major attraction, the Caves of Nerja, one of the most extensive and ancient cave systems in the world, only discovered in 1959 by five local boys who fell into a sinkhole.

On this trip to Nerja, I stay in town, in a room facing the ocean at the Parador de Nerja. After taking in the extraordinary views and a tapas lunch at the Parador’s outdoor restaurant, I have one important thing to do — jump in the ocean! With many beaches to choose from, Nerja’s turquoise waters are among the best I’ve seen in Spain, with the exception of Sitges and Mallorca. Afterwards, I walk around Nerja’s small downtown, visiting the local church of El Salvador on the Balcon de Europa to see the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of fishermen. In July, she is celebrated with a procession into the sea, something I hope to witness in 2026.

On this trip, I have an opportunity to visit restaurants serving the local specialty, espetos, grilled sardines. Along the winding streets in town, I discover many inviting bars and restaurants for people-watching, like Bistro Sevilliano and Anahi Cafeteria Pasteleria, which has a spectacular view of the ocean. There are even more restaurants on the western side of Nerja, including Italian and Indian restaurants that many visitors don’t know about.

On my last day in Nerja, my greatest joy is a simple one: watching the sunset. There’s nothing to rival its orange and golden hues. Like all of southern Spain, it invites me to return again and again.

What places call you to return, and why?

Disclaimer: Our talented writers are often invited by tourism boards and travel companies to experience places like this firsthand so that they can share them with you. As a guest of the Tourist Office of Spain in Canada, Carolyn was not compensated for her time spent researching, planning and writing this feature, nor was JourneyWoman for publishing it. In addition, the host organizations did not review this article before it was published, a practice that allows the writer to express her perspective with integrity and candour.

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