Featured image: Karen shares her tips on travelling to French Polynesia for older women | Photo by Karen Gershowitz

Unexplored territory in the islands of French Polynesia

by Karen Gershowitz

Imagine a place where the sea is a canvas painted in every conceivable shade of blue, and the sky is as vivid as the water. In French Polynesia, I discovered a paradise where the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean meets breathtaking skies. This part of the world, known for its lagoons, coral reefs, and clear waters, presents the perfect opportunity to connect with nature. Perhaps because of its remoteness, only 300,000 people visit French Polynesia each year. (In contrast, about the same number of tourists visit France almost every day of the year.) More than a third of all tourists to French Polynesia come by cruise ship, and stay in Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora. The remaining islands get few travellers.  For me, it felt like unexplored territory.

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Water: French Polynesia’s Liquid Landscape

Water is at the heart of everything in French Polynesia. It’s a country comprised of 118 islands, 75 of which are inhabited. From the moment I arrived, the sea was a constant companion. There were striking views in every direction I looked.

If you’re lucky enough to visit Fakarava, a protected biosphere atoll, you will be greeted by expansive waters that stretch as far as you can see.  You’re unlikely to encounter other tourists or even locals. Only 837 people live on the atoll, a ring-shaped coral reef surrounding a central lagoon.

On the day I arrived, it was blazing hot. One taxi served the island; however, it was unavailable so I spent time exploring the tiny town on foot. Then, drenched with sweat, I sat under the shade of a palm tree. But I carefully checked to be certain it wasn’t a coconut palm. A tour guide on another island had warned, “multiple deaths occur each year from falling coconuts.” I listened to the lapping of the ocean and felt truly relaxed.

When I was on Rangiroa, a huge atoll, the still, clear water, looked almost like glass. With each step I took in the silky water, I was surrounded by blue—from deep cobalt to soft cerulean. I was not alone in noticing this. Other travellers commented on the vastness of the ocean views, the ever-changing colours, and the tranquility.

If you arrive by ship, it will circle around Bora Bora to arrive at the entrance to its huge, nearly 20-square mile, lagoon. The US Army Corps of Engineers built the entryway during WWII. Once inside, the water is so vividly turquoise it looks surreal. Studding the water are motus, low islands formed in the coral reef.

Observing the shifting blues—each hue changing as sunlight danced on the surface—was a highlight of every day I spent in French Polynesia. And when the weather cooperated, the contrast between the sparkling water and the sky, streaked with wispy clouds, made for perfect sunsets.

Activities on the water: From tranquil boat rides to snorkelling and scuba diving

For those who want to explore the water up close, French Polynesia offers many opportunities. It’s easy to find a secluded beach and go for a swim. Other popular activities are scuba diving and snorkelling. There were so few people and the visibility was so clear that when snorkelling, I saw colourful coral reefs and schools of fish without ever feeling crowded. The reefs remain very alive there and are more vibrant than many other parts of the world, where pollution and climate change are bleaching them.

Sharks’ and manta rays’ sleek bodies cut through the clear water with effortless grace. At first, I was concerned about swimming with sharks. The guides reassured me blacktip reef sharks, the most common ones in French Polynesia, are not considered dangerous to humans. “They are shy and will most likely flee if you get too close.”

If you prefer staying above the water, glass-bottom boat rides are captivating. In Bora Bora, I watched marine life beneath the boat while taking in the island’s stunning landscapes. My guide pointed out a sharp white line where waves crashed against the barrier reef. Outside the reef, the ocean is dark blue. Inside the reef, it’s turquoise. The intensity of colour differed depending on the depth of the sea. In addition to the natural features, Bora Bora boasts overwater bungalows that stretch far into the lagoon. They are picture perfect. 

Water and Sky

While the sea steals the show, the sky isn’t far behind in terms of beauty. Every morning, I woke up pre-sunrise. The beauty of the sun emerging over the horizon was too good to sleep through. Most mornings, sunlight broke through clouds, casting a soft glow on the turquoise waters. As the sun rose above the horizon, the colours of both the sky and water changed rapidly from pale to vivid, then almost white as the sun moved higher in the sky.

Twelve hours later, the colours of the sky shifted from pinks and purples to fiery oranges and reds as the sun set into the ocean. It was a light show that never got old. 

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Experiences on land

Beyond the beauty of water and sky, French Polynesia offers a wealth of cultural and scenic experiences. In Nuku Hiva, I found rugged landscapes. Towering peaks and lush greenery met the sea in dramatic fashion.

I arranged for a taxi to take me and three other people on a tour of the island. The “taxi” was a pickup truck with benches along the sides of the truck bed and a roof to ward off the sun. We spent time in a small town in the Taipivai valley where Herman Melville wrote “Typee.”  The town was awash with hibiscus, ginger flowers, and gardenias. A local woman offered me a couple of slices of intensely juicy and sweet grapefruit just picked off a tree.

At a pearl farm on the island of Rangiroa, I learned about the cultivation process of black pearls. It is long and labour-intensive, with oysters seeded by hand and nurtured for years to produce the perfect pearl. Throughout the islands, black pearls are for sale. The most expensive ones were beyond my price range. They can cost thousands. However, many beautiful (but not perfect) pearls were affordable, some as inexpensive as $20.

On most islands, the economy relies on fishing. I saw this firsthand while watching locals fishing. Even better, on several islands, my lunch was the freshest sashimi I’ve ever tasted. The tuna, caught just hours earlier, melted in my mouth.

For a more land-based adventure, it is possible to explore the rugged beauty of the islands on foot or by jeep. In Bora Bora, a “le truck” tour circles the island. There were striking views—mountains, beaches, and tropical flora—everywhere I looked. I was lucky enough to be walking through town when a wedding party was emerging from a church. It was a fantastic opportunity to see people dressed in their finest clothing, wearing gorgeous shell jewelry and flower wreaths.

Raiatea is a small island rich in culture. My guide spoke in a knowing way about island life. This made sense when he explained his grandmother had been a queen. His family and others own large swaths of land from the shore high into the mountains. The property is passed from generation to generation.

He also explained and demonstrated the immense value of coconuts — for eating, drinking, oil for cooking, the husk as fertilizer, leaves for weaving mats, and more. He then took us to a vanilla plantation. I now know why vanilla is so expensive. Plants are individually planted, and the vines are secured to a stick or tree for support as they climb. Farmers in French Polynesia hand-pollinate each blossom because only a Mexican bee would naturally pollinate them. The drying and harvesting process is equally labour-intensive.

In Tahiti, I took a day tour that circumnavigated the island. On one side of the island, there are white coral beaches and smooth seas. On the opposite side, the beaches are black sand from lava rock, and the rougher seas make for good surfing. (They held the summer Paris Olympics surfing competition here.)

At the local botanical garden, I saw stunning multi-story tall waterfalls and flowers I’d never seen before. The last stop was a park with a lighthouse designed by Robert Louis Stevenson’s father in 1866.  But the lighthouse paled compared to the sunset there. The image of the setting sun across a shallow lagoon, with longboat crews paddling across, has become a prized memory.

French Polynesia for older women is a great choice

French Polynesia is a safe and welcoming destination for older women. The locals are warm and friendly, always happy to share their culture and stories. Whether you’re wandering the streets of a small town or enjoying a quiet moment by the sea, you’ll find the islands to be as much about the people as they are about the natural beauty.

The water, with its ever-changing colours, offers both adventure and relaxation. The sky provides a beautiful backdrop. If you travel there, whether you’re snorkelling in crystal-clear waters, soaking up a stunning sunrise or sunset, or learning about the rich cultural traditions of the islands, French Polynesia will be unforgettable. 

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If you go to French Polynesia

When to Go

The ideal months are May to October (dry season), with pleasant temperatures and less rain.

Temperature: Generally warm year-round, with temperatures ranging from 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C).

Getting There

International Flights: The Main international gateway is Faa’a International Airport in Tahiti (Papeete). Direct flights are available from Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO), and Vancouver. Check flight prices here.

Inter-Island Travel: Ferries and domestic flights connect the islands. Many travellers fly to Moorea or Bora Bora from Tahiti.

Other islands are more difficult to get to, with sporadic ferry service.

Cruising in French Polynesia

Cruising is one of the most popular ways to experience French Polynesia, offering the convenience of visiting multiple islands without the need for extensive flights or logistics. Seven different cruise lines regularly offer cruises around the islands. 

Small ship cruise lines that travel to French Polynesia include Silversea and Windstar.

Safety and Travel Tips

Safety: French Polynesia is generally safe for tourists, but like any destination, it’s wise to take precautions with valuables and avoid secluded areas at night.

Language: The official language is French, but Tahitian is also widely spoken. English is commonly understood in tourist areas.

Currency: The French Pacific Franc (XPF) is the local currency. Credit cards and Wise cards are accepted, but it’s helpful to carry some cash for purchases at local markets.

Dining on the Islands

French Polynesia blends French, Polynesian, and Southeast Asian cuisines. There’s a great emphasis on freshly caught fish. You can dine at a high-end resort or a local market, with prices to match the location.

For more information, check out the official French Polynesia Tourism website here.

Disclaimer: Karen travelled at her own expense to French Polynesia and was not the guest of a tourism board or cruise ship. 

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