Last updated on September 26th, 2025
The road less taken in Nepal
by Carolyn Beasley
Picture Nepal, and you may imagine trekkers in the Himalayas, Sherpas schlepping backpacks and prayer flags flapping. The sky-piercing mountains are undeniably spectacular, but trekking tourism sees the visitor dollars concentrated along the most popular routes, while most of Nepal remains stuck in the grind of making ends meet.
One organization, the social enterprise Community Homestay Network of Nepal (CHN), is on a mission to spread the tourism spend, shifting it away from areas already groaning under overtourism and into the hands of those who need it, particularly women and those from diverse ethnic groups. To experience the CHN journey from its raw and adventurous beginning, I’m joining an eight-day fully-guided ‘circuit’, called ‘Eastern Nepal: The Road Less Taken.’
The company works with 50 communities around the country who offer accommodation or experiences that include cooking, bike tours, or cultural celebrations. CHN particularly empowers women, helping them earn money, often while still maintaining traditional roles at home, like caring for children or elderly relatives.
The women behind Community Homestay Network
The company started in 2012, and in Kathmandu, I meet Ms. Poonam Gupta Shrestha, who grew up in one of CHN’s first community homestays in Panauti, the first member community.
Poonam explains that through CHN, her mother and the other women of the community established a business, hosting guests and conducting cooking classes. Poonam often helped with English translation, and the additional money helped Poonam complete her degree in business. Inspired by how this sustainable tourism model could assist families and empower women, Poonam went on to become the Chief Operating Officer of CHN.
Another inspirational woman I meet in Kathmandu is Ms. Kabita Raut Maharjan. With CHN’s support, she established a hands-on cooking class in Kirtipur, teaching visitors to make Nepal’s delicious dumplings, momos. Kabita explains that with the proceeds of one group cooking class, she can run her household for six months. This money has helped her son to study in the USA.
“I used to ask my husband for money,” she laughs. “Now I give money to him! I needed a new phone, and I bought it with my own money.”
It takes time for participants to start reaping the rewards, and both of these homestay experiences are located close to Kathmandu, where tourists are plentiful. However, CHN is also working with communities in places that are almost completely new to tourism, like Dhankuta in eastern Nepal.
Changing lives in small communities
Arriving in the small city of Dhankuta, our group meets Ms. Sabitha Shrestha, member of the Newari ethnic community and Dhankuta’s first female tour guide. Leading our group through the charming old town, she explains that the houses here are all painted orange to remind visitors that this town was once famous for growing oranges. Touring the local market, Sabitha gains confidence with her English, explaining that we are only the second group she has guided.
Another rookie guide is Mr. Nabin Rai, a 22-year-old member of the Aathpahariya ethnic community. We follow Nabin on a hike through the spiritual mountain forest, learning about his gods, nature worship and the occasional chicken sacrifice.
In Nabin’s own village, Khambela, we learn about water security infrastructure being developed by Smart Paani, a partner in the HIGRID project being implemented by the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD). Nabin points out the new water tanks, and groundwater recharge ponds, all designed to alleviate the effects of climate change-induced water scarcity. Nabin explains that for the women of Khambela, these measures can save hours of walking to fetch water when rains haven’t arrived.
Another day we meet the Limbu community. At the sacred mountain of Cholung Park, a small museum recreates Limbu houses, and safeguards precious artefacts. A jhakri, or shaman in traditional dress, whirls and drums, preparing his blessing for community members. It’s a deep honour to be invited to participate, and as the jhakri chants and quivers, he flicks me with holy water and a piece of sacred leaf, a ceremony of longevity.
A world hidden from tourists
The highlight of my stay is our two nights at Sipting Community Homestay, where five Aathpahariya families from the tight-knit farming community open their homes to our group. We sleep in basic but comfortable spare bedrooms and we’re served meals sitting on woven mats.
The women teach us traditional crafts, and we belly laugh together about our ineptitude. The community hosts a cultural ceremony night, and we sip fermented millet wine. As the male elders start drumming and singing, the women pull us into the community’s large circle. Dancing with the young and old, in the middle of a remote Nepalese farm, I’m giddy with joy.
“You have been all over the world,” she says. “And when you choose to come here, it makes us proud.”
CHN’s model extends well beyond tourists simply paying for rich, authentic experiences. It shines a light on the lives of Nepal’s women and ethnic groups, a world that was largely hidden from visitors. It empowers those women with pride, confidence and money of their own. This is tourism at its best, a priceless gift.
How to get to Kathmandu, Nepal
Eastern Nepal: The Road Less Taken is an eight-day tour starting and finishing in Kathmandu. Priced from US$2,360 per person on a solo basis, with price reducing per person with more travellers. Includes a local English-speaking guide, all ground transportation between Biratnagar and Janakpur, accommodation and listed hands-on experiences, plus most main meals. Excludes domestic transport options for Kathmandu to Biratnagar and from Janakpur to Kathmandu (via flight, private transfer or bus). International flights and entrance fees are not included. Check for flights here.
For more information on this and other CHN homestays and experiences around the country, please visit their website here. For more information on travel to Nepal, click here.
Disclaimer: The writer was hosted by the Community Homestay Network and the Nepal Tourism Board.
Carolyn Beasley
Carolyn Beasley is an award-winning travel and environment writer based in Perth, Australia. She has a background in marine and environmental science and her travel writing is focused on sustainability, nature and culture. She has previously lived in Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Scotland and is happiest snorkelling a coral reef or hiking a forest trail.
This is so wonderful! Bravo to ALL the women who participate–from overseas and in Nepal. We are SISTERS.