Featured image: In Antarctica, there is as much to see underwater as on land, including penguins / Photo by Mint_Images  via Envato

How to have a more immersive Antarctica experience

by Carolyn Ray

You expect to see penguins, whales and seals in Antarctica – but snorkeling with them? In a region as pristine and protected as Antarctica, this is an experience only a few brave polar expeditioners can lay claim to, and I’m one of them. 

When I signed up for the snorkeling excursion on Aurora Expedition’s Antarctica Explorer trip, I never imagined that the world under the water would be as fascinating as the one above it. On this 12-day trip, the 71-room Sylvia Earle travels along the Antarctic Peninsula, one of the most pristine, wild and untouched places on the planet. While the kayakers and paddlers float above, there are eight intrepid adventurers who clamber into our dry suits twice daily and venture into the icy waters of Antarctica, snorkeling in coves lined with wildlife, kelp and icebergs. Before long, we are known as the ‘snorks’, a term that comes to signify a special bond among us.

My snorkel team leader, Pete Shaw, is from the UK and has been with Aurora since 2017. A passionate snorkeler and scuba diver for decades, he says that teaching people to snorkel in Antarctica is an honour.

“We maintain a great bond within the snorkel team and operate as a small group within a slightly larger family of 100 or so guests on the ship,” says Shaw. “I love being in and around the ice, the colours, the shapes the way the light hits the water. By its very nature, snorkeling is an immersive experience and provides a different perspective on Antarctica.”

Why women should try snorkeling in Antarctica

On my first dive, I am surprised to see that life under the water is as vibrant as above. The Southern Ocean is saturated with small, shrimp-like krill, gigantic ribbons of brownish reddish kelp, and long, flowing chains of translucent salp. I am stunned by the colours – turquoise, maroon, gold and white – and the clarity of the water. It really is the best of both worlds, seeing what’s above and below.

“Snorkeling is very accessible to everyone,” Shaw says. “If you can climb a ladder into a zodiac, you can snorkel. Snorkeling appeals to those who haven’t tried it before to an experienced diver who doesn’t want to deal with all the encumbrances of scuba gear.”

Every day, there are moments of joy in the water. One morning, I’m snorkeling near a penguin colony when a raft of Gentoo penguins jump into the water and shoot past me like little torpedoes. I scream with delight into my mask as they circle around my feet, then shoot up to the air in unison. When I pop my head up to follow their path, they are already on land, shaking their feathers and hopping up to find a warm place in the sunshine.

Another day, we snorkel in a cove with icebergs, gleaming turquoise under the water, as fur seals play nearby. There are many restrictions on getting too close to wildlife, so we are careful to keep our distance, and watch from afar.

The absolute highlight happens on our last day, when a 35-foot minke whale surfaces in the distance. Without a moment of hesitation, I jump in the water with two other snorks, giddy with excitement, hoping she might come closer. Arm in arm, we watch this beautiful creature in the wild for about 20 minutes, as she swims several metres below us. How magical is that?

What is snorkeling?

Having snorkeled all over the world in regulated experiences, most recently with whale sharks in Mexico, I made sure to pack a waterproof camera, but aside from that, I never considered what I would wear underwater.

At my first snorkel session, I learn how to get into a dry suit. A dry suit is a very unfashionable, rugged, heavy canvas spacesuit, similar to what Buzz Lightyear might wear to the moon. To keep water out, there’s a tight rubber seal around my wrists and neck that grips to my skin. An industrial zipper stretches from the hip to the shoulder that locks out all moisture. While it’s not the most fashionable outfit, it does add to the aura of feeling ready for anything.

Underneath, I wear three layers of clothes, including socks, merino wool top and bottoms, a puffy jacket and winter pants. Getting into and out of a dry suit is a 15-minute exercise, including the neoprene boots, gloves, helmet and enormous fins, but after a few days, I feel like a pro. After each outing, the dry suits are dried in the mudroom, so they’re toasty warm for the next adventure.

The benefits of being a snork

Snorkeling excursions also include time onshore and on the water in a zodiac. With two excursions a day, there’s plenty of time to connect with others in a small group setting. In addition to the snorkeling experience itself, there are several benefits to being a snork.

Because we snorks are a small group, we leave the ship first, which allows us to see the small islands and animal colonies ahead of the other guests. 

“The Aurora ships provide a really nice balance between maintaining the intimacy and family nature that is at the core of Aurora’s expeditions,” Shaw says. “There’s a tight community between the expedition guides and travellers, and the ships provide a level of comfort, luxury and connectivity that is expected by the modern traveller.”

As a group within a group, we have the flexibility to find our own adventures on our own. On one excursion, we follow a group of humpback whales as they enjoy krill on a sunny day. On another, we drift past a leopard seal napping and yawning on an iceberg. Everywhere in Antarctica we see and hear glaciers, groaning and crunching, as they calve into the water below.

Keeping Antarctica pristine

Safety and wildlife protection is of the utmost importance and animal experiences are highly regulated. On land and in the water, per IATTO (The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) regulations, we stay 15 metres away from penguins and seals. Consideration of the animals comes first, particularly their levels of anxiety if surrounded by too many humans. (To read the IATTO Wildlife Guidelines, click here).

While in the water, we avoid snorkeling near icebergs, which can flip or turn at any time. If a leopard seal is seen, we cannot snorkel, as they can be territorial.  Our snorkeling tours typically last between 15 to 20 minutes in the water. Even when some water leaks in through my gloves, it’s not enough to get me out of the water until I’ve seen every last bit.

Aurora Expeditions is a B Corp (Benefit Corporation) and takes the concept of ‘leave no trace’ literally. There are extra precautions for cleaning boots, particularly with the avian flu. As we leave and return to the ship, we dip our feet into an eco-safe sanitizer. On land, we follow a route mapped out by the guides and cannot lie down, touch or kneel on the ground.

On our last night on the ship, our group of eight snorks gather to share photographs and videos of our time spent together. We marvel at what we’ve learned and experienced, and the bonds that have developed among our small group, borne of an incredible shared experience. Antarctica has changed us all, shown us a world we didn’t know existed, and that most don’t ever see. Somehow, I know we’ll all meet again, maybe in an icy cove, our heads bumping against ice floating on the ocean. Magical.

Note: Snorkeling is an additional excursion priced at about US$675 per person on a 12-day trip. When you book with Aurora and use JourneyWoman’s special offers and discount code, you receive an onboard credit that helps offset that cost.

What to pack for Antarctica

On an Aurora trip, the dress code is very casual. In addition to your normal clothing:

• At least 2 sets of merino wool shirt/pants for two outings every day
• At least 3 pairs of socks, or more if you are snorkeling
• At least 2 pairs of gloves (in the event one pair gets wet)
• At least 2 pairs of pants/ jeans for meals
• At least 1 pair of wind/snow pants
• Sunglasses (use a cord for the wind), reef-safe sunscreen, warm hat
• Underwater camera / Selfie stick to film underwater, even from a zodiac
• Sneakers or comfortable shoes to wear on the ship
• Gym clothes and a bathing suit for the polar plunge! (pool and hot tub)
• Slippers and robe (a robe is provided but you may prefer your own)

Hiking boots and a winter coat/puffy jacket are not needed as mud boots are provided by the ship.

Cleaning services are available for US$45 per laundry bag (no need to bring your own soap!)

Disclaimer: Carolyn was a guest of Aurora Expeditions on this trip, as part of our partnership to create the first all-women expedition to Antarctica in February 2027. Limited spaces are available; please send an inquiry here and use our special code when booking. 

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