Featured image: Tanzila overlooks Berat while exploring accessible travel in Albania | Photo by Tanzila Khan

How a road trip made me love my wheels even more!

by Tanzila Khan

Albania is an Eastern European country that hardly ever comes up on TV news or tour pamphlets that advertise coastal destinations. That doesn’t stop me from visiting seven cities that give me countless memories. But is it accessible for women in wheelchairs? This is something I want to find out.

I arrive in Albania with my rucksack, three long colourful frocks, my laptop, wheelchair battery charger and some skincare. Little do I know that my colour palette is about to be changed forever as Albania offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture. A road trip through the southern part of the country allows me to explore stunning coastal towns, ancient ruins, and picturesque landscapes.

Getting to Albania

It is easy to get to Albania via flight from anywhere in the world. Although Tirana is the capital, I want to get away from the city and try something ‘off the beaten track’. And for that, you need a car and a friend who can drive you around. At this point, I am also thinking what you are thinking about driving myself and this is a dream I have parked on my dream board to be able to drive a wheelchair-adapted car across the Balkans. The best part about traveling is that you keep getting more ideas to travel further and in different ways!

It’s not hard to find and rent a car in Albania. But you do need to be physically fit, have an international driving license and be able to submit a safety deposit if you are taking the car without the driver. The cost is around €20-40 per day, depending on the vehicle type and rental duration. The fuel prices are approximately €1.50 per litre. In our Passat 2014 car, my wheelchair can be folded and kept at the back. My friend, who is a travel enthusiast himself, is driving and I am the car hostess, DJ and ‘mapchecker’. We are on our way!

Off-Season Accessible Travel in Albania?

In April, it is the off-season for tourists and now we know why. Rain. But luckily this is only for the first few hours and the weather clears as we drive south. We instantly learn a hack about taking advantage of cheaper tickets to a destination. Usually ticket prices get lower if it’s off-season, rainfall, snowfall or any other reason for fewer people to fly there. But once you fly there, you don’t have to stay in that city and can  actually take a trip to a nearby place that has much nicer weather and activities. This was true for us as we had flown to Tirana with cheap tickets and met with heavy rain. However, the weather during the road trip down south was much nicer and clearer.

It is now time for lunch and we stop at Garden Cafe Restaurant, which is close to the Tirana Airport. We take this time to exchange money for the Albanian Lek, just in case the credit cards do not work. Albania has a large Muslim population and I am happy to enjoy the food along the road which is Halal. Little do I know that for the next three days, I will be ordering the same dish, lamb chops! Because it is that good! The food has a variety of meat and vegetarian options cooked with simple spices and mostly salt. The best options are grilled meat with vegetables on the side. I also keep trying the local fruit, especially strawberries!

I avoid all drinks, beverages and even water because I am not sure about accessibility in the bathrooms in Albania. Having a companion does not mean having an attendant, so even with company, the challenges of having a disability when travelling solo remain.

The Route in Albania

Much like our real life, road trips are defined by the routes we choose and maybe this is the hardest decision because there can be multiple ways to reach our destination. One choice will always make us miss something else. I suffer greatly from F.O.M.O (Fear of missing out) and wonder if I will miss anything while on the road. I did some research online and looked into multiple routes that could take us to the South. But the feeling is always there with questions. What if this route is dangerous? Or is more rocky and less scenic? What if there is a waterfall on the other route?

Route Ahead: With Saranda as the resting point, we take one route to see cities like Gjirokaster, Tepelene and Ksamil Islands on the way.

Return Route: We will take a different route to explore Vlore while heading back. Berat is two hours beyond Tirana and a good last-minute decision to cover before the departure flight because we have time and the flight is at night.

While on the way Albania unfolds as the most beautiful lush green landscape. The sun is shining and the white clouds above complete the palette. No matter where I turn, there is something to see. This marvellous display is matched with an amazing playlist of local Pakistani songs and old classics from the West. (When you are packing, don’t forget a superb playlist!)

The first stop, Gjirokaster, has vertical houses on the hills. This city is known as the place where the famous Albanian Writer, Ismail Kadare lived. His house is now a museum. (Buy tickets here). Unfortunately, the place is not accessible, but before I leave, I purchase three books by the author as a souvenir.

An hour ahead is a town called Tepelene, where we get off to explore the town center and meet and talk to the locals. Tepelene is a historical town surrounded by lush greenery and mountains, offering a serene escape from the coast. I find it hard to wheel around on the cobblestone streets but I enjoy looking at the ruins of the Tepelena Castle.

Here I also meet Shazam, who gives me permission to pick some roses from his garden. In return, he sits down and shares stories about his life. It turns out he has two wives and his many children are currently travelling around the world! Strolling around the town and looking at the serene landscapes around me, I wonder if the inhabitants of this town ever get bored looking at this majestic beauty of green fields.

And then comes the big challenge — the toilet. Will I say that accessible travel in Albania is easy? No. Am I badass enough to still do a road trip here? Yes! So the inaccessibility is part of the adventure and as much as I dread using the bathroom anywhere, I manage to find some solutions by asking everyone around me. The problem is the doors are not wide enough for a wheelchair to enter. My solution to that is to put a chair in the doorway and slide onto it from my own wheelchair. The door is impossible to close as the toilet itself is really small but the best way to manage that is to inform people around me to not come towards that side so I can have some privacy.

Accommodation in Albania

I chose Saranda as the lodging site as it is a bustling coastal city with a laid-back vibe overlooking the Ionian Sea. It offers stunning views of crystal-clear waters that I imagine waking up to while having my morning coffee.

When we reach Saranda late in the night, it is pitch dark and takes more than 45 minutes to find the booked accommodation. We booked a property called Galaxy Apartments via booking.com. Though it does say that it is wheelchair accessible, the ramp is too steep and dangerous to move on and the bathroom door also is not wide enough. The sad part is that the property is listed as wheelchair accessible but their definition is short on safety and empathy. Because we don’t have a choice, we continue to stay in the same place and I use a chair to use the toilet. At this point, my biggest advice on booking accommodation anywhere would be to get in touch with the property owners and ask for information and pictures to avoid such surprises!

Ksamil Islands and Butrint National Park

On day two of this remarkable journey, two locations put me in awe. We leave early in the morning to visit the Ksamil Islands, just a 30-minute drive away from Saranda. Ksamil is famous for its idyllic beaches, with white sand and turquoise waters, offering a perfect spot for relaxation and water activities. Here we find a spot to relax on the beach, play chess and I meet Claudia who is the owner of Bar Restaurant Rilinda. I try Albanian coffee and find it is deliciously brewed. To make it even more special, Claudia does not charge me and I think I have made a friend!

From Ksamil we drive for 10 minutes and reach the Butrint National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with ancient Greek and Roman ruins. The ticket is free for visitors with a disability and most of the area is accessible. But many times I end up in places against nature where my wheelchair does not have access. I wish they would have marked where the inaccessibility is so I would not go there. Another unique experience is being bitten by a mosquito on the lips, making me instantly realize that I should always keep repellent with me and never think about getting lip fillers.

Vlore and Berat

It is day three and the day when we are meant to take the flight by evening. We leave early in the morning to explore the different route back to Tirana and reach the coastal city of Vlore. Here, there are beautiful tall Khakee buildings against the blue Ionian Sea. We stop to get lunch here and pick out some fridge magnets as souvenirs.

Because we are travelling during the off-season (April) most of the places seem closed, but it is also a peaceful time and the whole place seems to be just for us. We drive through a scenic mountain pass offering breathtaking views of the coastline towards Berat, known as the “City of a Thousand Windows.” It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site with well-preserved Ottoman architecture and a picturesque setting. Here I cannot contain myself and take off to see the neighborhoods even on the cobblestone streets. I am mesmerized by this beautiful village but unfortunately, time is short. I would have loved to see the Berat Castle, Gorica and Mangalem Quarters and the Ethnographic Museum.

Albania is unique in its own way

On our way to the Tirana airport, the rain returns, reflecting on our journey through Albania’s beauty, hospitality, and culture. I feel that despite accessibility challenges, every minute was inspirational and full of awe. Albania was the perfect setting to meet the badass in me. Departing Albania, I feel a renewed appreciation for my wheels and the freedom they provide. For anyone considering an accessible adventure, Albania offers rugged charm and endless stories. Don’t forget the lamb chops!

More on Accessible Travel