Featured Image: Cup and Saucer Trail, a Manitoulin must-see | Photo credit: Carolyn Ray

A Fall Visit Reveals Manitoulin’s Great Spirit

by Carolyn Ray, Editor, JourneyWoman

As curious travellers, we always seek the untold story. We want to learn about the unedited history that can only be told by a local. The places that are off the beaten track, evident only when you make a wrong turn. The stories that pull at your heart and cause you to take a deep breath.

I found all of these in Manitoulin, much to my surprise. For years, Manitoulin has been a source of intrigue for me. When I visited Tobermory last summer, I gazed enviously at the MS Chi-Cheemaun ferry (which has the inviting phrase ‘Travel in Good Spirits’ as its mantra) departing from Big Tub Harbour. Even then, on a boat tour to see mysterious shipwrecks and the ancient limestone towers of Flowerpot Island I looked wistfully into the distance, wondering what mysteries Manitoulin held.

Manitoulin hits all of my nature, culture and history buttons. Its proximity to Tobermory’s turquoise waters, its significance to the Anishnaabe (Ojibway) people as home to the Great Spirit, and its stunning views from Cup and Saucer. The archeologist in me wanted to learn more about Sheguiandah First Nation Reserve, which has archaeological remains believed to date as far back as 9,500 years.

Here, nature and water create energy. It is the largest freshwater island in the world with over 100 lakes that run through the middle of the island. This area also marks the northernmost point of the 400-million year old Niagara Escarpment, which stretches for almost 500 miles across southern Ontario from Niagara Falls, a remnant of the layered sedimentary rocks deposited in ancient seas of the Paleozoic Era.

When the Indigenous Tourism Association of Canada offered to organize a tour for me with Wiikemkoong Unceded Indian Reserve, I jumped at the opportunity to learn about the region’s indigenous history, culture and people.

Day 1: Tobermory to Providence Bay

I drove in the night before so that I could get on the first ferry in the morning at 8:50 am. It’s advised you line up an hour before departure so that you can go through COVID screening prior to boarding.

The MS Chi-Cheemaun ferry (Ojibwe for “big canoe”) departs from Tobermory several times a day. It takes about two hours (masks on the entire time). And there is limited cellular service, so you can just breathe deeply and enjoy the view on Georgian Bay and Lake Huron.

Providence Bay, which faces south across Lake Huron, is about a 20 minute-drive from the ferry. It’s said that its sandy beaches are among the best in Northern Ontario. Providence Bay is one of those places where I can easily imagine me, a beach chair and an awesome book in the summer.

This time of year, the empty boardwalk, a cool breeze, unspoiled sand dunes and lonely seagulls suited me just fine. Sometimes it’s easier to discover the essence of a place when you can hear the stillness. ⠀

I loved the attention to detail in the stunning bear and owl mural on the south side of Mutchmor Galleries, painted by Toronto artists Shalak Attack, Flya Bruxa and Bruno Smoky in 2016.

Cup and Saucer Trail (or Michigiwadinong’) 

Less than 30 minutes away is Cup and Saucer Trail, one of Manitoulin’s best known parks. It’s a steep climb, with stairs that you have to go down backwards on the way back. Not for anyone with mobility issues. But the hike is worth it. This is a sight not to be missed.

Even though I had seen photographs, I was unprepared for the majesty of this experience. As I walked slowly towards the white cliff, my breath caught in my throat. I don’t usually have a fear of heights, but standing on the 70-meter high precipice, I felt a ripple of fear and awe run through me as I looked out to Lake Manitou and the North Channel.

For a few brief moments, I wished I was an eagle — able to take off from a cliff, glide effortlessly above the earth and spiral down toward the forest. Part of me wanted to fly high, and the other part of me wanted to escape back into the forest where it was safe.

Known as ‘Michigiwadinong’, ‘the bluff In the shape of a spearhead’, the story of Cup and Saucer involves Nenabozhoo (or Nanabush) a prominent trickster and cultural hero in Ojibwe storytelling. According to the sign near the trail entrance, Nenabozhoo was fleeing from the Mohawks and dropped his giant spearhead and handle and ran off. The lower, smaller bluff is the spearhead and the higher, longer bluff forms the spear handle.

Day 3: Sheguiandah

A dig and featured quarry near the Sheguiandah First Nation Reserve have archaeological remains believed to date as far back as 9,500 years ago. This is referred to by archaeologists as the Paleo-Indian period, one of the oldest cultures known in Ontario. It was closed but the red and white buildings of the reconstructed village are charming and picturesque, and include a sawmill, box and barrel works, sash and door factory, flour mill, cheese factory and the Island’s only woollen mill.

Wiikemkoong Unceded Indian Reserve

My last day on Manitoulin Island began with a morning tour of Wiikemkoong, on the northeastern tip of the island. Wiikemkoong is Manitoulin Island’s largest First Nation community and Canada’s only officially recognized Unceded Indian Reserve.

Buffeted by a chilly wind, my tour guide, Mitchell, took me on the ‘Unceded Journey’ tour of historic sites, landmarks and monuments. He painted a complex chronology demonstrating how many countries — England, France, the US, and Canada — have profoundly shaped, defined and influenced the history of Manitoulin Island.

Like standing inside the ruins of the residential school of Holy Cross Mission, the oldest Catholic church in Northern Ontario, destroyed by fire in 1954. Or the hard decision to postpone this year’s 60th anniversary of the Annual Cultural Festival, one of the largest, longest-running Pow Wows in North America, started by Rosemary Odjig in 1961. Or the pride in being self-sufficient by developing (and defending) their own trading economies, but also stepping in in times of need to support Canada at war. I’m sure there are thousands of more stories still to be told.

Located at the end of Beach Rd in Wiikemkoong, the Bebamikawe Memorial Trail is an easy to moderate looped 14km trail with scenic lookouts and vistas. Some sections are muddy, so bring your hiking boots and a walking stick. Due to Covid-19 you must purchase a trail permit online here.

I went to listen, and left with a deeper understanding about the history, culture and traditions of the Anishnaabek people of the Three Fires Confederacy — Ojibwe, Odawa, and Pottawatomi. I also have a deeper respect for their ability to adapt to change, strong sense of community and pride in their resilience.

For my next trip

Airbnb and the Indigenous Tourism Association of Canada have partnered together to showcase exciting First Nations, Inuit and Métis Cultural sites and tourism experiences. Immerse yourself in 15,000 years of Culture, Tradition, food, and history of Indigenous Peoples in Canada — all on your doorstep. You can learn more here: https://www.airbnb.ca/d/indigenouspeopleofcanada

Great Spirit Circle Trail: Offer nature-based and cultural tourism from an Aboriginal perspective on beautiful, majestic Manitoulin Island and the Sagamok region of Northeastern Ontario, Canada. Experiences range from soft adventure to wilderness eco-adventures and educational interpretive tours. More here: https://www.circletrail.com/

Ojibwe Cultural Foundation: The Ojibwe Cultural Foundation was established in 1974 to preserve and revitalize the language, culture, arts, spirituality, and traditions of the Anishinaabe people of Mnidoo Mnising (Manitoulin Island) and surrounding areas. It is dedicated to nurturing the expression of Anishinaabe culture in all forms, so art, language, stories, songs, and teachings flourish now and remain strong for future generations. https://ojibweculture.ca/

Debajehmujig Creation Centre: Debajehmujig was the first — and remains the only — professional theatre company located on a Reserve in Canada. The organization was founded by Shirlee Cheechoo, Blake Debassige and a group of like-minded colleagues in the summer of 1984 in West Bay (M’Chigeeng First Nation) Manitoulin Island, Ontario. It creates original work based on an Anishnaabag/Chippewa Nation worldview and builds bridges between cultures, generations, and territories. It also supports the development of Aboriginal artists in remote rural areas as well as cities. http://www.debaj.ca/

Mishibinijima Private Art Gallery: Mishibinijima Private Art Gallery is an Indigenous Art Gallery located in Wikwemikong and displays the Ojibway artist, Michibinijima. Michibinijima is from Wikwemikong First Nation and creates art that communicates peace, respect, and connection. He also acts as a mentor and educator for fellow artists and has his art shown both nationally and internationally. Viewing by appointment only. https://mishmountains.blogspot.com/

Gordon’s Dark Sky Reserve: Gordon’s Park (Latitude N 45.66866, Longitude W 81.97073) is the proud home of a Royal Astronomical Society of Canada (RASC) designated Dark Sky Preserve. The Preserve is one of the darkest observing sites in the Province of Ontario, with no light pollution or sky glow around the 360 degree observing horizon. You can also stay in cabins, tents or tipis. https://www.gordonspark.com/dark-sky-preserve/

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