1. Looking over the Rim of the Active Masaya Volcano

The best of Nicaragua can be found outside the capital, in its jungles and colonial cities. Our first day was spent visiting volcanoes. The active Masaya Volcano, which is about 30 minutes from Managua, is extremely accessible – in fact, it is the only volcano in the western hemisphere where you can drive to the rim.  It’s famous for its bats and colony of green parakeets, which live inside the volcano, and you can look into the glowing lava in the dark crater mouth, smell the sulfur dioxide and feel the heat rising up. This 2,083-foot volcano has been a popular religious site for centuries, with many ceremonies and human sacrifices allegedly taking place into the “mouth of hell’.

After we’d explored Masaya, Rafael inquired: “So, have you ever had coffee on a volcano?” Always ready for adventure, I jumped in the truck and we drove up the 1,345-foot dormant Mochambo Volcano, a massive conical volcano bordering Lake Nicaragua, close to Granada.

We sat on the porch of Hacienda El Progreso, sipped delicious Café Las Flores organic coffee, and enjoyed the hazy views of the forest below, enjoying glimpses of Nicaragua’s national bird, the motmot, a brightly colored bird with a long blue tail.

Find a tour to Masaya Volcano here!

2. Exploring Granada and the Pueblos Blancos

Over the next several days I was treated to the best of Nicaraguan artistry in the Pueblos Blancos (“White Villages”), Masaya and Granada.

My guide took me to the picturesque San Juan de Oriente, which has been in the pottery business for over 1,000 years.  We also visited the Mercardo de Artesanias craft market in Massaya, which has hand-woven hammocks, leather goods, and colourful dolls, hemp weaving and wood carvings. I took a pass on the frog-head leather wallet and painted crocodile head, but I did purchase a hammock for my daughter at the market.

One of the highlights was meeting Tio Antonio, who started Café de las Sonrisas or Café of Smiles, which creates jobs for people who can’t hear or speak.

The café and the adjacent hammock workshop in Granada train people with some physical difficulties and provide them with usable skills for employment. Such an inspiring day!

5. Ushering Baby Turtles into the Water at Playa el Coco

My last night in Nicaragua was in the south, in Playa el Coco, near the Costa Rican border.  We gathered with Luise, our host, and neighbours to watch baby turtles being safely ushered into the water, and a large turtle laying eggs on the shore.

As I watched the sun dip into the ocean, I realized how hard it is to articulate the most meaningful part of my journey – every part of Nicaragua is unique, and every experience brings a new understanding of the culture.

Nicaragua is an authentic, rugged experience. It’s a welcome diversion from carefully cultivated vacation destinations and all-inclusive services. If you embrace the authenticity of the country, you can truly enjoy it.  At no time we were ever worried about our safety, and we felt like explorers in an undiscovered, lush country. My advice? Live in the moment, don’t stress the small stuff and you’ll find your way, eventually.  Above all – enjoy the ride!

Where to stay in Nicaragua

• Hotel Los Robles, Managua features 14 rooms, at about $100 per night including breakfast. Full-service restaurant. Ask for a room near the pool. Book it here!
• Hotel Dario, Granada, about $95 per night including breakfast. Ask for a second-floor room near the back to avoid street noise. More details here.
• Posada Azul Beach Hotel, about $100 per night including breakfast. Ask for a room near the pool/courtyard. Book it here!
• La Veranera Guesthouse, four rooms $74 to $104 depending on season. More details here!