What to Do When Travel Plans Go Awry: Adventures in Norway

by | Jan 24, 2025

Alesund Norway

Last updated on January 28th, 2025

Featured image: Scenic views of Ålesund, Norway | Photo by Karen Gershowitz

How to shift your mindset and make the most of any situation

by Karen Gershowitz

If you travel, you have probably experienced situations when travel plans don’t go exactly as you expect. We’ve all experienced cancelled or delayed flights, hotel rooms that were less than what you hoped for, or expensive but mediocre meals. I categorize those kinds of mishaps as inconveniences. While they aren’t pleasant, they don’t seriously interfere with your enjoyment of the destination.

Then there are more troublesome events. Over many decades of travel, I’ve had weather-related delays that grew beyond inconvenience into massive disruptions of my plans. For example, my luggage was lost, leaving me with only the clothes I was wearing. Or, when a flight was cancelled, requiring me to reschedule both the flight and hotel.

Over the years, I’ve learned to alter my mindset, be in the moment and appreciate the opportunity to make lemonade out of lemons. Travel, much like life, rarely follows the script we write in our minds. It’s up to us to adapt.

My journey to see the Northern Lights

Seeing the Northern Lights has long been my dream. Over the course of several decades, I’ve attempted to view those ephemeral shimmering lights. Cloudy skies, snow, and rain thwarted those journeys in Montana, Wisconsin, and Iceland.

In 2024, I decided I would make yet another attempt to see the lights after I read the following headline: “Do you dream of seeing the Northern Lights? Now is the time! From now until 2026, aurora borealis activity is expected to reach its highest levels in 11 years.”

When I was invited to join JourneyWoman’s 30th anniversary cruise in Norway, I accepted without hesitation. Travelling in December, close to the winter solstice, would be cold and dark. I was ready for that, or so I thought.

Unlike my previous trip to Iceland, I wouldn’t need to wait outside in the bitter cold. I could go to sleep and if the lights appeared, I’d get a phone call to wake me. Finally, I’d fulfill my dream. I hauled out my large suitcase, walking sleeping bag (a down coat that reaches my ankles) and all the clothing layers that had been in hibernation.

Tip 1: When the lights don’t appear, be the light

True to my Borealis luck, the first and second nights onboard the Hurtigruten ship were cloudy. The ship’s name is Midnatsol (Midnight Sun). For my journey, it would have been more appropriately named the Nosol (No Sun).

On our third night, we crossed into the Arctic Circle. Once in the Arctic we rarely saw the sun, just a slight brightening on the horizon that disappeared as quickly as it appeared.

I used the time on the ship to admire the beautiful scenery, get to know the other JourneyWomen and write. It was a peaceful hiatus from my usually hectic life.

Hurtigruten's Midnatsol ship in Norway

Hurtigruten’s Midnatsol / Photo by Karen Gershowitz

Polar night in a small town in Norway

Scenes in the Polar night / Photo by Karen Gershowitz

Tip 2: When it rains, grab a poncho and get out there! 

Prior to boarding the ship, I spent three days exploring a very rainy Bergen. While several people had warned me about the weather, I had blithely tucked that information far from my consciousness. Despite the wet, I enjoyed my visit. It is an attractive city with friendly people and lots of intriguing neighbourhoods. A day trip, Norway in a Nutshell, provided a taste of the fjords.

Apart from the rain, there was one glitch—food was scarce. On the Norway in a Nutshell trip, there was nowhere to buy food. I returned to my hotel with a rumbling stomach. That evening, every restaurant hosted a holiday party or was fully booked. My hotel suspended room service. Dinner wasn’t the fresh fish I’d hoped for, but cheese, crackers and yoghurt from a convenience store. C’est la vie! 

As we travelled north, we docked in a series of cities and towns. In Ålesund, I explored its impressive Art Nouveau architecture and postcard perfect fjord in on-and-off rain showers. Despite the weather, the stroll through the city cheered me enormously. The city felt like an amalgam of the past and present, with a view of wild open waters and nearby islands. If the climate was better, I could see living there. But the sun never got very high, instead it made a fast, low sweep across the sky. Still, that arc was enough to provide a rosy glow that set buildings and water sparkling.

Trondheim, Norway’s third largest city, was founded by Viking King Olav Tryggvason in 997 A.D. The day we visited was blissfully bright, though very short. The tour I took gave me a good sense of the city, including the Nidaros Cathedral, considered the most sacred building in Norway. It was impressive seeing three magnificent organs and hearing stories of the building’s multiple transformations.

Views from the Norway in a Nutshell tour from Bergen

Views from the Norway in a Nutshell day tour from Bergen / Photo by Karen Gershowitz

Tip 3: When the wind blows, bend with it! 

The weather impeded most excursions in Tromso. I was looking forward to ascending high above the city on the funicular. I imagined seeing a dense area of lights surrounded by almost total darkness. However, that was not to be. Strong winds shut down the funicular and cancelled most other excursions. It also filled the sky with scudding clouds, removing any chance of seeing the Borealis.

I may not have gotten the panoramic view I was looking for, but I got to see how people in an arctic town carry on, no matter how bad the weather. It was a lesson in adaptability. On board the ship, I gave a talk to other members of the group about travel journaling, we swapped travel stories and heard about conservation in Africa. We enjoyed each other’s company and bonded as a group.

Alesund, Norway

Overlooking Ålesund / Photo by Karen Gershowitz

Inside the Trondheim cathedral

Inside the Nidaros Cathedral / Photo by Karen Gershowitz

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Tip 4: Be patient and stay curious

Four nights in, I’d heard lectures about the Aurora Borealis by a “Northern Lights chaser.” I had been harbouring the fantasy that since it was dark all the time, it would be possible to see the lights at any hour of the day. The astronomer dashed that hopeful theory. He explained that the best viewing time is within an hour or two of midnight (between 10 PM and 2 AM local time).

We were now well into the Arctic. It felt like it. At our first port of the day, there was a genuine blizzard. As we headed further north, in the dim light, I could just make out high snow-covered mountains. When we passed through the open Arctic ocean, swells rocked the ship violently. Passengers and crew all looked as if they’d had too much to drink as they tried to stay upright walking around the ship. I held onto the railings that lined the halls, frequently stopping to regain my balance. When I came to an open area without a railing, I’d hold on, wait for a moment of relative calm and then make a mad dash to the safety of something to grab onto. I passed on lunch, not wanting to need the barf bags situated throughout the ship. I still hadn’t seen the lights.

However, despite the rough sailing conditions and lack of Northern Lights, the number of tiny communities existing in this harsh environment intrigued me. With house lights blazing on a handful of homes against a backdrop of steep, jagged peaks, it felt as if we were passing from one mirage to another. How do these people survive?

The scenes were tantalizing until I went outside. The top deck of the ship was frigid with a biting wind. In spots the deck was icy. Even wearing cleats on my boots, I clutched railings to keep myself from falling. I decided viewing the scenery through picture windows was safer.

Darkness at the harbour in Tromso
Afternoon in Tromsø / Photo by Karen Gershowitz
A small Arctic town on the coast of Norwar

A small arctic town / Photo by Karen Gershowitz

Lessons learned

In the end, I never saw the Northern Lights. Still, it was a fascinating, memorable experience. On board the ship, I enjoyed the company of a group of wonderful women who were part of the JourneyWoman 30th Anniversary Cruise. I got to experience life in the far north near winter solstice when there is minimal daylight. The people who live there have my respect for enduring the darkness and remaining cheerful.

What I took away from this adventure and my other travel disappointments and mishaps is the value of resilience and adaptability. When plans go awry, the ability to shift expectations and embrace the unexpected makes the journey worthwhile. Though I didn’t see the Northern Lights, I witnessed breathtaking landscapes, sampled unique cuisine, and connected with fascinating people. I left Norway with a deeper appreciation for the beauty of imperfection—and the understanding that some dreams may remain elusive, but the pursuit itself is where real magic happens.

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More to Discover From Norway

Karen has been traveling solo since age seventeen, when she flew to Europe and didn’t return to the US for three years. She got severely bitten by the travel bug and since then has traveled to over ninety countries and has visited all fifty states -- many of them multiple times. In her career as a marketing strategist she traveled the world conducting thousands of meetings, focus groups and interviews. Her skills as an interviewer have persuaded total strangers to talk candidly about the most intimate of subjects, personal bankruptcy, illness and religion. When traveling for pleasure, those same skills helped her to draw out people’s stories. Karen’s first book of travel stories, Travel Mania: Stories of Wanderlust, explores the confluence of travel and life events, and how travel has changed her beliefs and life direction. Wanderlust: Extraordinary People, Quirky Places and Curious Cuisine continues those stories, addressing memorable food, people and places she experienced in her travels.

2 Comments

  1. Maggie Weber

    Karen- you are a treasure, I am so glad we got to travel together! Thanks for sharing both on the ship and now! I appreciated the photography tips- you are a master! Your words and advice ring true and will help make those travel mishaps just part of the journey!

    Reply
  2. Jenny

    As someone who travels a lot, I can totally relate to the unexpected twists that come with every adventure! Sometimes, the best memories come from the plans that go completely off the rails. Your Norway experience is proof that a little flexibility and a good sense of humor can turn travel hiccups into epic stories. Thanks for the inspiration—now I just need to add ‘embrace the unexpected’ to my packing list!”

    Reply

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