Photo by Sara Depraetere on Unsplash

Put the Calouste Gulbenkian, the National Museum of Azulejos, and the Casa Museu Medeiros e Almeida on your must-visit list!

By Sally Peabody, Contributor, JourneyWoman

Sprawling over seven hills, Lisbon is a luminous gem with many facets. For art enthusiasts, its museums and emerging districts offer an almost limitless supply of classic, contemporary, cutting-edge or quirky museums to enjoy everything from Portugal’s iconic blue and white azulejos (painted tiles) to exquisite art nouveau jewelry and European art.

The Calouste Gulbenkian, the National Museum of Azulejos, and the Casa Museu Medeiros e Almeida

Three of my favorite Lisbon museums are the Calouste Gulbenkian, the National Museum of Azulejos, and the Casa Museu Medeiros e Almeida.

I visit the Gulbenkian every time I am in Lisbon. It actually comprises two separate museums in an adroitly landscaped setting not far from the heart of downtown. It’s easy to walk to from the Praca da Espana metro stop. Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian oil dealer and merchant, was offered sanctuary in Lisbon during World War II. A prodigious art collector with extraordinary taste, this museum is his gift to Portugal.

The collections reflect his passions for Islamic art, Oriental art, the decorative arts, French painting, elegant European furnishings, and exquisite art nouveau jewelry. There are also collections of ancient Egyptian artifacts and even a large display of rare ancient coins from the Roman Empire and the middle east.

On the lower level, a cafe opens to the park, a restful spot for coffee or a light lunch. The Gulbenkian ticket also includes admission to the Foundation’s modern art collection, exhibited in a building a short walk away across the park. And don’t forget to check the schedule of concerts presented in the atrium of the main museum.

And don’t miss the tiles! Portugal is famed for its blue and white azulejos (painted tiles) that decorate all manner of buildings. These range from simple colorful decorations to large, complex scenes resembling epic paintings or murals. The informative and captivating National Museum of Azulejos is located a bit out of the downtown area but is easily reached by Uber or taxi. If you have the faintest interest in Iberian and Islamic tile work, this museum, set in a sixteenth-century convent, will be a memorable part of any sojourn in Lisbon. There is also a museum cafe in what was once the convent’s cloister, offering a range of well-priced fare.

Classic, Contemporary, Cutting-Edge or Quirky

Contemporary creativity in Lisbon has a vast new home in the refurbished LX Factory in the warehouse district of Alcantara. This re-purposed fabric-and-dye complex on the Tejo riverbank houses a good number of workshops, ateliers, cafes, even micro-breweries. LX has quickly established itself as a destination for shopping, eating and just plain hanging out. It is particularly animated on weekends.

Readers who are fans of Dorrie Greenspan and her popular baking cookbooks may have read her article on her 2019 visit to Lisbon. Sophisticated world traveler that she is, she was relieved of her wallet and passport while riding the aforementioned antique #28 tram through Alfama. She was so depressed by the event that it colored her enjoyment of Lisbon until she visited Landeau Chocolate in the LX Factory. There, the sublime chocolate torte jolted her back to celebrating the good things in life. I haven’t had a chance to try that torte yet, but I won’t wait long next time I am in town! Greenspan’s article, including her re-creation of ‘Lisbon Chocolate Cake’, can be found in the archives of the New York Times.

Also in Alcantara, with its typical Lisbon mix of cutting edge and quirky, the Carris Museum is home to a collection of antique tram cars and other historic public transit vehicles.

The Museum of the Orient is also nearby, filled with treasures from Portugal’s era of exploration. And don’t neglect to visit MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology),  a sleek new hub focusing on visual arts, urban affairs, technology, and science.

My Lisbon friend Joana suggests a visit to the Pilar 7 Bridge Experience, an interactive experience that takes a visitor through the story and structure of the magnificent April 25 Bridge spanning the Tejo. All these options are readily by trams, buses, or light rail running towards seaside Cascais.

Backstopped by a proud people, and energized by its continually emerging present, Lisbon is by all measures one of Europe’s great cities. Like that other European ‘city of light’ Lisbon is a moveable feast.

More from Sally Peabody on JourneyWoman.com