New Zealand’s Wild West: Untamed Wilderness on the South Island

by | Aug 3, 2024

Last updated on August 21st, 2024

Featured image: Ship Creek views, on New Zealand’s South Island | Photo by Rosemary Neave

The Southern Alps are an adventurer’s paradise

by Rosemary Neave

Running down the spine of the South Island of New Zealand is the Southern Alps – on one side the east coast with our main cities Christchurch and Dunedin and Invercargill. Mostly dry and windy and sometimes very hot – the wide Canterbury plains formed by the extraordinarily braided rivers. On the west a narrow strip of landforms the West Coast. If the cities are the east, then the west is small towns – and the untamed wilderness of rainforest and wetlands – think the wild west!

First Stop: The Gold Mining Town of Ross

Two nights in Ross enabled my wife Cynthia and I to do the final leg of the West Coast Wilderness Trail – from Hokitika to Ross. We stayed at the fabulous beachside Ross Top 10 Holiday Park – a few km out of Ross, but right on the beach to catch the sunset. The wilderness trail passes the gate, so perfect.

Cynthia set off towards Hokitika and could take her time botonizing along the way. I drove the car to Hokitika, and rode from there back to Ross. A varied ride through beautiful wetlands, along old tram trails, and eventually following the old train line. I did not stop – it was misting with rain and did it in under two hours.

Note: Always be prepared for rain on the West Coast – sometimes half a metre per day can fall – roads may close briefly, but they mostly seem prepared for it.

A cozy bedroom at the Alba Place Hotel in Pitlochry, Scotland

A glimpse of Fox Glacier on our way through/ Photo by Rosemary Neave

Ample living space and homey touches at the the Alba Place Hotel in Pitlochry, Scotland

Snow falls overnight at Fox Glacier / Photo by Rosemary Neave

Second Stop – Fox Glacier Township

Once we leave Ross, the road heads into the magical forests of South Westland. We drive through avenues of tall Kahikatea and Rimu and get the picture of what this land must have been like before white settlement. Every so often there is a brown sign which indicates something worth seeing.

At Fox we stay in a quiet motel, the Sunset Motel, a bit out of town towards Lake Matheson. I was not sure if we would get a sunset from here, but the setting sun lighting up the mountains was magical – especially after the snowfall!

Two must-dos in Fox

  • A trip to Lake Matheson – 6km easy cycle out of town, or just a few kms from Sunset Motel. The locals have sorted an offroad cycleway all the way which is nice. Lots of lovely walks and cafē.
  • Walk or cycle the Glacier Valley Cycleway/Walkway. On the edge of town, walk into a magical timeless rain forest – a wide track perfect for walkers and cyclists to share. Even if all you have is 10 minutes, start this walk – you will not be disappointed.
The Auld Smiddy, a beloved Pitlochry go-to for classic fish n' chips.

Ship Creek Board walk/ Photo by Rosemary Neave

Jules Torti steps from the windswept summit of Ben Vrackie.

Bruce Bay – Mahitahi / Photo by Rosemary Neave

Heading for Haast

  • Bruce Bay/Mahitahi – pull over, this is a beautiful coastal view
  • South Westland Salmon Farm and cafe – check out the huge towering Rimu tree as you enter and feed yourselves or the salmon – the choice is yours.
  • Ship Creek – amazing facilities and walks – this is something special – explore the dune lakes, walk the board walks, climb the two-storey tower great views
  • Haast itself is not really worth a stop in my opinion, but it marks a change as we head over to Otago.

Note: Take your time – don’t just drive through at 100km aiming for your next destination – take time to turn off and explore and walk the well-marked trails.

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Note: This article originally appeared on Women Travel New Zealand and was generously republished here with the author’s permission.

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Born in Australia, Rosemary now lives in Christchurch in the South Island of New Zealand. Before that Rosemary lived in Auckland and Waipu. Her blog, Women Travel New Zealand has been built as a way of connecting women travellers with women-run tourism ventures around the world. For more on New Zealand visit: https://www.womentravelnz.com/

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