Lead image: The stunning Welsh coastline is second to none for scenery, easily viewed from the 1,400 kilometer Wales Coastal Path, which encircles the entire country / Photo by Pat Lee

From coastal hikes and mountain biking to castles, cakes and coasteering

by Pat Lee

Although the Welsh word  ‘hwyl’  (pronounced ‘hoo-eel’) might be difficult for the average North American to pronounce, what it means — fun —is easily understood, even after a short visit to this country on Britain’s west coast.  From the moment I arrive by train in the Welsh capital of Cardiff, joy, passion and fun seem to bounce off the walls of castles, historic shopping arcades and neighbourhood chippies. The city is buzzing as supergroup Oasis prepares to take the stage for its first concerts in years, adding an extra layer of energy to the air.

But even without that momentous occasion,  hwyl  is easy to find in quieter corners of Wales, over a comforting cup of Welsh cake cwtch tea (cwtch, pronounced ‘kutch’ is the Welsh word for a cuddle or hug) at Bird & Blend Tea Company; on a scenic pootle, local slang for walking at your own pace, along the dramatic Wales Coast Path with only kittiwakes gulls for company or during an energetic mountain e-bike ride through the Welsh backcountry, politely urging sheep to move aside.

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Seven ways for women to experience joy in Wales

Promoted as a wilderness adventure, my trip alongside other travel writers focused primarily on southwest Pembrokeshire, where the hiking is legendary, beaches are sandy and inviting and seaside towns are small, charming and refreshingly unpretentious. “Feel the  hwyl: Only in Wales,” is the tourism slogan, and feel it we did.  Here, in no particular order, are my top seven ways for women to find joy, passion and fun in Wales.

1. Getting Lost in Cardiff’s historic arcades

Before heading to rural Pembrokeshire, the focus of my trip, I spend a day exploring Cardiff, starting with the Castle Quarter, home to beautiful Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades. These aren’t game-filled malls, but narrow laneways lined with independent shops and cafés.

Cardiff Market supplies lunch from its many food stalls, and later we dine at The Welsh House, where my waiter and guide debate the merits of sticky toffee pudding, said to have been Queen Victoria’s favourite dessert.

2. Hiking the Wales Coast Path

Stretching some 1,400 kilometres, the Wales Coast Path traces the entire coastline of the country and is said to be the first dedicated coastal path to do so. I walk several sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path within Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, enjoying sweeping Atlantic views, blooming flowers and plenty of cardio as the trail dipped down to beaches and climbed back up to looming hills.

One particularly joyful moment comes when I encounter Welsh ponies roaming freely near St. David’s Head. Managed by local farmers, the ponies are unfazed by hikers and barely lift their heads as I approach them for photos.

3. Mountain e-biking through ancient landscapes

While I’m an avid recreational cyclist, mountain biking isn’t usually my thing. Adding e-assist, however, changes everything. Guides from Hidden Routes in Newport leads me on a cross-country adventure through country lanes lined with ancient hedgerows, sheep-dotted fields and narrow single-track trails.

There are moments outside my comfort zone (hello, ancient hedge, as I’m falling into you), but the thrills and epic scenery make it worthwhile, especially knowing the trails in the Preseli Hills are more than 5,000 years old.

4. Eating exceptionally well

Fueling our adventures is an impressive lineup of food, starting with the ubiquitous Welsh cake. The traditional sweetbread made with flour, sugar and often currants, appears everywhere from upscale bakeries to corner markets, in a variety of flavours like blueberry, lemon or cinnamon. The best, of course, are freshly made, including Welsh cakes made by a guide’s mother and passed around in plastic containers during a birdwatching break along the coast.

A standout dinner is at Yr Hen Print Works, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant in Cardigan offering a frequently changing Welsh tapas-style menu. The small plates keep coming, and we happily keep tasting. We are also treated to a memorable meal at Really Wild Emporium in St. Davids, known for its six-course tasting menu that highlights seasonal, regional ingredients.

5. Trying coasteering (once)

Unique to Wales, coasteering is a mashup of cliff jumping, swimming and rock scrambling, best tackled with an experienced guide. We are in capable hands with Richard Carpenter, co-owner of TYF Adventure, who leads us out on a grey, moody day along the rocky coast.

After wading in from shore, we swim along the coastline and explore sea caves. While most of my group scrambles up crags and times their leaps with the swell before launching into the water below, I opt to bob happily in the sea and watch, equal parts impressed and relieved.

Would I do it again? Probably not. But I understand the appeal for adrenaline seekers and am glad to get a taste of this distinctly Welsh pastime.

6. Beaches, bays and unexpected pilgrims

More my speed is walking Pembrokeshire’s beautiful beaches, encountering surfers, swimmers and fellow pootlers along the way. A seafaring nation, Wales boasts dramatic inlets and tidal bays where boats rest on the seabed at low tide, thanks to some of the highest tidal ranges in the world, rivalled only by places like East Coast Canada’s Bay of Fundy.

Coastal towns such as Tenby, with its 13th-century walls and colourful shops, rise dramatically above the sand, while Little Haven proved ideal for a perfect takeaway order of fish and chips.

One of the most unexpected encounters was at Freshwater West beach, where we came upon tearful pilgrims visiting a memorial for Dobby, the fictional house-elf from Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1. The scene of his death was filmed here, and fans have created a makeshift memorial, complete with painted stones, a wooden cross and a familiar item of clothing fluttering in the sea breeze. RIP, Dobby.

7. Staying somewhere special

Wales also delivers on memorable accommodations. Near Cardigan, Fforest farm has back-to-nature cabins, domes, lofts and farmhouses. Think outdoor showers, wood-panelled interiors and a tiny pub for winding down at day’s end.

At the more luxurious end of the spectrum is our stay at Twr y Felin Hotel in St. Davids, a short walk from the village and its shops, restaurants and historic cathedral. The two-storey boutique hotel celebrates Welsh heritage with warm Welsh cakes at check-in, a Welsh welcome message in the elevator and commissioned art featuring famous countrymen (Tom Jones) and women (Shirley Bassey). Once a backpackers’ lodge and partly built from an 1800s windmill, the hotel was once owned by the inventor of coasteering. Today, it’s a source of joy, passion and fun, like much of the rest of Wales.

Disclaimer: Our talented writers are often invited by tourism boards and travel companies to experience places like this firsthand so that they can share them with you. As a guest of Visit Britain and Visit Wales, Pat Lee was not compensated for her time spent researching, planning and writing this feature, nor was JourneyWoman for publishing it. In addition, the host organizations did not review this article before it was published, a practice that allows the writer to express her perspective with integrity and candour.

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