Featured image: Medellin is showing signs of hope and renewal after being the world’s most dangerous city | Photo by Bryan Bravo on Unsplash

Once the world’s most dangerous city, Medellin is an unexpected surprise  

by Carolyn Ray

When I decided to spend five days in Medellin, Colombia, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I had been to Bogota and Cartagena almost 10 years ago, and found the people warm, welcoming and friendly. But Medellin?  

Arriving alone in Medellin on an early morning flight, I admit to being a bit anxious given Medellin’s historical reputation. Instead, I left in awe of the transformation that is taking place. Once the world’s most dangerous city, Medellin has mastered the art of accepting its past with grace but moving forward with courage. Across this city of four million people, I witnessed hope and renewal, evidenced in sites from Parque Inflexion to Comuna 13 to Moravia. 

Cultural change takes time, courage and powerful, honest storytelling. It also takes leadership, and in Colombia, women are stepping up to lead change. One recent development is that the Republic of Colombia has elected Francia Márquez, its first female Black Afro Vice President, an environmental activist from the mountainous department of Cauca in southwestern Colombia.

Is Medellin safe for women?

When I asked other solo travellers what they thought of Medellin, reactions were extremely positive. Most of the comments focused on the warmth of the people, delicious food, festivals and beautiful countryside. (That doesn’t mean you can let your guard down; to help plan a trip, always review our Solo Travel Safety tips here.)

There are few cities in the world that have managed to overcome a reputation for violence to lead a process of social change. Between 2014 and 2022, Medellín experienced a decrease in crime of more than 85 percent. It. has spent the last 20 years rebuilding and reinventing. Earlier this year, Medellin won a prestigious award for South America’s leading emerging tourist destination from the World Tourism Market.

In May 2022, hotel occupancy reached its highest rate since 2006 at 72.5% and experienced a growth rate of 38% in international travellers between January and May of 2022. These numbers surpass Bogota, the capital, and Cartagena. Most visitors are from the U.S. at 39%, followed by Mexico (16%) and Panama (12%). 

Places to explore in Medellin

Parque Inflexion: Remembering the victims of violence

One of the changes Medellin has made is to acknowledge the victims of violence, instead of the perpetrators. In 2019,  the condominium building belonging to one of Colombia’s biggest drug dealers was demolished, and the Parque Inflexión was created. This public park is a quiet place where people walk their dogs past a long wall that has 46,212 holes in it to represent each victim. At night, the holes are illuminated. 

On the other side of the wall is a list of terrorist events that occurred in a nine-year period, many on the same day or month. It’s incredibly overwhelming. There is also a Peacebuilders monument to police officers who died in the line of duty. 

At the end of the wall is a quote “Somos lo que dejamos a los demás” which means “We are what we leave in the hearts of others”.

Carolina Díaz Velásquez, one of our guides, shares the story of her own uncle being kidnapped and eventually killed by the Medellin cartel.  Fearing for their lives, her family moved to Bogota only to return years later. She finds therapy in giving tours, which allow her to share memories from her childhood.

“This is a time that produced a lot of pain but it can’t be ignored,” she says. “We learn from the lessons of the past.” 

Note: While I was there, I observed several tours selling Pablo Escobar t-shirts and other assorted swag. Please don’t go on a Pablo Escobar tour; this only glorifies violence. You can find other tours here. 

“We never had dreams before,” she says. “Now we know how important it is to make wishes in your heart and push positive energy out into the world.” 

These women are role models, showing that dreams are possible through collaboration, that the right energy can create change and that Moravia, once a garbage dump, is becoming a place of hope and opportunity.

San Antonio Plaza: Botero’s birds of peace

At San Antonio Plaza, two Botero sculptures stand side by side. On the left is the original ‘Bird of Peace’ (Pajara de Paz), which was blown up in 1995 by a guerrilla group, killing 30 and injuring more than 200. The group claimed it was a message aimed at Colombia’s then-defense minister Fernando Botero Zea, Botero’s son. 

Instead of removing the damaged bird, Botero insisted it should be kept to honour the victims. He donated an identical, undamaged second bird in 2000 to stand beside the first bird.

Improving urban mobility

Escalators to connect Comuna 13 to the city

Almost every story about Medellin includes some mention of the 384-metre escalators built into the side of the mountain to improve access to this area. It replaced stairs residents had to take to their homes. 

In an area previously known for violence, the escalators brought positive benefits to Comuna 13 including positive press from outlets like CNN and helped residents feel pride about the area. 

Opened in 2011, the development has become a model for urban planning around the world. Bars, restaurants, shops and art galleries pepper the route, which also provides stunning views of the entire city and stunning graffiti. 

Mass transit by gondola 

Another innovation is the gondola system built in 2004 that links Medellin’s underdeveloped suburbs to the city center. Usually. we see these on ski hills, but with Medellin’s steep hills, six cable cars were installed as a means of mass transit, integrating people who lived on terraced areas on the steep hills into the city.

Thanks to the Metrocable, residents could access healthcare and new jobs. Underneath the one I visited is a library where children use computers and check out books for free.

What we can learn from Medellin

My time here in Medellin — once the most dangerous city in the world — shows us that while we cannot forget the past, it is possible to hope, dream and take action for a better world.

There is still fear here, but the younger generation is trying to learn from the lessons of the past rather than be held back by them. Even now, cocaine production exceeds what it did during the drug wars, due to demand in the United States. What’s also surprising is how isolated this city was from the outside world. 

(Note: My trip to Medellin was arranged by the Society of American Travel Writers as a press trip with Colombi Tourism, however I paid all expenses. Colombia Tourism did not review this article in advance). 

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